I have just listed a selection of Austin Seven books / manuals in the For Sale section.
These are offered in one lot, I will not split, and with proceeds going towards Alzheimer's research.

Austin Seven Companion - 750MC.
Bert Hadley, a Son of Birmingham - Geoff Roe.
Original Austin Seven - Rinsey Mills.
The Austin Seven Manual - Doug Woodrow.

These are all in near mint condition.

These are offered as one lot - I will not split - with the proceeds going to assist with Alzheimer's research

£75.00 to include p&p within the UK.

Chris Garner. 
ulster29@hotmail.co.uk
07774 780293

What is the best way to set up the brakes on this car?

It is an Ulster rep built on one of the very latest (it seems) SWB Chassis with coupled brakes. It has a s/girling front axle, with the adjuster at each hub, with new Green Gripper linings on 11/4” shoes, new cams and std levers. The axle has new kingpins etc and radius arms are located with a new pivot ball at the crossmember. The ruby drums have been checked, refaced and are ‘true’. The rear axle is std long-nose banjo with new linings same as the front, new cams and std levers and pressed steel drums that have been fully checked and are ‘true’.

The single front brake cable has a suitably-spec’d turnbuckle in it for fine adjustment and each rear cable has a turnbuckle as well.

The car will be going on an extended trip shortly with two 15st men in it!

I have the car on a garage ramp, can support it on the axles with wheels free to rotate and all adjusters available.  I can use the Handbrake to simulate the footbrake.

So, the question is, what is the best process to get the best braking?  Do I need to put bags of coal in the cockpit to get a representative weight before adjusting?  Do I bring up the front brakes first and then bring in the backs to suit?  Or vice-versa?

On a separate note, I am keen to hear how readers top-up the back axle and how full?

Thanks 

Hugh

I am having to cut the floor of my 1932 Box to get the old U-bolts out (and the new ones in).

Does anyone have an image of the required "slot" and its position relative to the main spring bolt.

Obviously whoever rebult the car in the 1970's thought the U-bolts wouldn't need to come out again.

An early Mulliner saloon captured in 1939 competing in a CSMA trial. The OU registration number dates the car to late 1928.

Photo submitted by Robin Boyce.    

Does anybody supply the reinforcing plate for the front wings of box saloons?

Morning all.
I’m working on my new to me 1933 PD to get it to a point that I’m confident to undertake longish drives.
Currently despite lots of work my brakes don’t inspire me, they work fine for light braking, but braking hardly improves as pedal pressure is increased. The brakes don’t pull significantly to either side, but I can’t lock any of the wheels. Being on four new longstones does mean plenty of grip.
So far I have:

Re-lined all shoes
Replaced rear cams, bushes and cotter pins as they were worn.
Bolted through the O/S cross shaft mounting as the rivets were loose.
As the front brakes have Bowden cables I have beefed up the Bowden outer anchor points on the drum backplates as they were moving under heavy pedal pressure.
Cables are in good condition and the inner and out cross shaft isn’t seized.
Drums look good and aren’t distorted.

I’d like to hear from any owners in south Suffolk who could give me a second option.
Any other suggestions very welcome.

Hi all,

It struck me that this might be a good place to review products of all types that work (or do not). I know everyone has their favourites so maybe an idea to share good and bad experiences.

No fighting though!

To kick off, a couple of paint primers that I have experience of, one bad, one good:

1. Blackfriars Red Oxide Metal Primer


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Thick, gloopy consistency. Very little odour, even though it's a "wash brush in white spirit" paint. Very poor coverage, brush strokes just show base metal through the furrows. Altogether a poor product that I won't use again.

2 Halfords spray acrylic etch primer


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Good paint, self etches to steel and Aluminium. Excellent coverage, one coat is usually enough. Readily overcoats with spray acrylic. Don't use it where E10 (or E5 come to that) petrol may spill onto it, like all acrylics, it will dissolve with the ethanol!

Fed up with constantly being tailgated in my Ruby by large BMWs and even larger SUVs, I have taken a leaf out of a WW1 Naval Operations manual and can now make smoke at will.  A lever mounted under the dash releases old engine oil straight onto the exhaust. 

   

This produces a big cloud in no time.  Amazing how effective it is - makes them pull back straight away. 

   



 

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This was the view back down the local A57 the first time I tried it - not a car in sight.  Success?

Installation was easy and is reversible - it took less than an hour and cost less than a tenner.

If anyone is thinking of building a 750MC or similar race series, Austin Seven monoposto I'm offer a 3 piece body, the molds where taken from Don Rawsons race car way back in the 80's and I've recently had a company make a few ..

They fit either a SWB or LWB chassis, I can offer paper templates of the side panels to match. Viewing is possible, but in Belgium :-)  collection is possible from my parents (haven't told them that yet !!) in West Sussex. 

Price is €975 or £850 depending ... 

As you know not VSCC eligible, would swap for a running seven Engine ... I'm on the forum most days - any questions please feel free to ask.  

I hope it helps someone with their project..

Cheers
Matthew 


Located in Ertvelde near Gent Belgium



UK delivery to West Sussex is a option.
 
Please contact Matthew Mason info@matthewmason.eu

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