We do some thousands of miles in our Chummy each year. Once again 12 months or so has passed and another fabric coupling has disintegrated. It came from one of the 'Cherished Suppliers' and replaced another 12 month or so item. The current one appears to be more rubber than fabric.......


I would like to hear where these can be bought, ideally with buyer's/users experiences, good and bad, so i can make an informed choice (if there is a choice at all) of where i try next. I don't intend to reveal the supplier, as this might start a moaning contest that serves no useful purpose....

I have a balanced propshaft, of the correct length, with a free running & sliding Carden joint that is well greased, and has little detectable lateral play in any direction. The output shaft of the gearbox also has no play. The power output is as good as a bog standard engine really gets, and no more.....

Wise words please!

W

Shed clearing time:
A matching, correctly handed pair of axle side tubes to suit the long chassis, 3 piece rear axle. Good condition and with the threaded adjusters.
Easily modified to make a narrow track axle for that vintage Ulster/special!
£20

Also lots of 3 speed geabox parts. Cases, gears etc - no tops though (before you ask?) Some came from marinised boxes so don't have wear in the usual places. 
Ask if you need something

More to come....

morning all, I’m not brilliant with electrics so I need to ask for your help please.

The original ammeter pictured on the right has a damaged rim and broken glass but the one on the left is in good shape but is an inductive one (I think) the question is, can I use it and would anyone know how?

I’m guessing the wire loops through the hoop and goes to the dash lamp like the original.

   

Argghhh! 
It appears a disaster has befallen my '38 Big 7....... I can't shift the gearbox out of first and the 'box has gone 'tight' 

I could really use some help or pointers - is there a typical failure mode with these 'boxes that might cause this?

I am resigned to stripping out the gearbox and dismantling (having already whipped the top cover off in situ and inspected with no obvious ailments) but it would be really useful if anyone might have any suggestions as to what I should be looking for.... 

Here's what happened.....

I went to use the car yesterday, it started as normal, shuffled it back and forth to get out of the garage, then pulled away in first, coasted down the drive in gear with the clutch in to approach the road (20m), got to the road and let the clutch out slowly to pull onto the highway and as it began to pull forward the car suddenly pulled up short (like the brakes had jammed on) and I couldn't move the gear lever. Thereupon I was stuck in the middle of the road, straddling the carriageway! I realised I was unable to move the car - I couldn't push it, couldn't get it out of gear and it would only move forward under engine power with difficulty (it would lurch forward when the clutch bite eventually overcame the high friction in the box) and that's where I was stuck.....

I managed to move the car to the edge of the road, whipped the top cover off the 'box to see if there was anything obvious (nothing, plenty of oil too), found I couldn't move the gear selector for 1st/2nd and that was it. I had to disconnect the propshaft to be able to move the car back to the garage. With that disconnected I can tell that the output drive flange on the gearbox is tight and won't move like it normally would, so the 'box has clearly gone tight internally somehow...

Help!

Is there a standard diameter for the number circle? There seems(at least here in the US) to be a wide variety, though the the numbers must be at least 8 inches high. Does the VSCC have a standard?

Erich in Seattle

Not a very good copy, I'm afraid, but I've done my best with it...

Attached File(s)

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I was setting the valve clearances today and realised that this is only the second sidevalve engine I've ever worked on. The other one was a straight 8 Railton of about 4.2litres which I ran as a more or less open chassis about 40 years ago. The engine was a thing of wonder and power and it ran very  smoothly with a single carb and a lovely exhaust note. 
Anyway, my question is has anyone ever siamesed two A7 engines together to make a 1 1/2 litre straight 8? I can't see any insurmountable problems and I'm sure it could be made to look and sound really nice.

I have always wondered why the column has "Gas" and "Ignition" levers.

Not quite true - "Ignition" is obvious, but why "Gas"?


"Car and Classic" do weekly articles, one of which gave me a light bulb moment.   Possibly.


Talking of the Ford Model T, it describes the pedal layout: clutch on the left, reverse in the middle, brake on the right.    Gas and Spark on the column.

The article says that it wasn't until the Austin Seven came along that the Clutch - Brake - Accelerator layout on the floor became standard practice.


So was Austin nodding acquaintance with the most successful mass produced car of the time by labelling the column controls as he did, so Model T drivers in particular saw something familiar if

they switched to a Seven?


Or am I stating the bloomin' obvious that everybody else knows anyway?

Having bought my RN back in March, and more or less immediately removed the engine and gearbox to renovate the clutch, I am at last putting some (very enjoyable) mileage under the wheels.

However I am listening hard as I drive along, trying to make sense of the various sounds particularly from the rear.

I realise this is a very subjective question but are Carden Block joints very noisy!!?

Thank you in anticipation of your opinions, Brian.

ScA7C has recently received confirmation of booking for the Guildtown rally next year (2021).

The confirmed dates are: Friday 30th July until Wednesday 4th August 2021

Please note that in a slight change from previous rallies, nobody except the organising committee, will be permitted on site until after midday on the Friday.

The rally next year is a special 50th Anniversary celebration and will be preceded by a self-led tour of Scotland based loosely on the route of the 1924 Six Day Scottish trial and ending up at the rally on the Friday, see [Only registered and activated users can see the links Click here to register] for the route taken and then start to book your own accommodation and plan your own route just now in time for next summer.

A copy of the original programme for that event is [Only registered and activated users can see the links Click here to register].


Ruairidh Dunford

Secretary