Erich Volkstorf, known here as " Erich in Seattle " was very recently diagnosed with a heart defect. He underwent successful open heart surgery last Friday, is out of ICU and recovering slowly but well. As a fervent Seven owner he was very looking forward to attending the Centenary celebrations with his son and to meet up with all you " Friends' " Sadly this is not to be.
I'm sure you'll all join me in wishing him a speedy - note the Speedy, one of his cars! - recovery.

Here for sale is an austin 7 engine stand.

It is made from a hospital gurney, so it can be raised with the 2 handles, moved and lowered to the ground again.

It was made in a way that a DYNO can be fitted to the rear.

And run as a test bed. And not just a build up stand.

Well built, and the welding is done correctly.

I was advised to keep it for my own use, but just dont have the space at the moment.

Priced at £40.00 to a quick collection.

tony.7ca@aol.co.uk

   

John Hall has just returned from a holiday in the Netherlands, and came across this Type 65 for sale at €22,000. Sounds a bit expensive, but if it's got the original sports engine perhaps not so much. It's still got the correct steering wheel and front axle/radius arms, so there's a chance the engine is original.

           

Hi
How do I contact the Forum Administrator?
I posted a help message 2/3 days ago requesting help/advice of how to assist Peter Butler  (of Le Mans Speedy and free Road Tax fame)
restoring his Forum access.

Look forward to answers.

Good news (especially for those in south Devon who can pop in to the shop) KBS Coatings is back available in UK.


Update on KBS Coatings paint etc.

I have just been using some more Rust Seal on my Austin car body and spoken to supplier getting story of current situation. Simon Hall at Milber service station is shown as contact but Simon Hall's Daughter Olivia has taken over (where her mother left off) as full time handling the KBS and she works from same Milber address at TQ12 4AU. Her contact number is 07928308377.
 Web page www.kbs-coatings.co.uk[url=http://www.kbs-coatings.co.uk/][/url]

BBBUT it is not always up to date with what they actually have........I did search on ebay and found some tins/aerosols etc not on their website (all were KBS products Olivia was selling) so best to phone to get stock availability. She is still building up business/website  and no doubt more products will appear. She is soon going to be placing another order with KBS America. (yes we can personally order through KBS in America but have you seen the p/p cost!).
Usual most popular items are number 1 thinners, AquaClean for cleaning, Rust Blast - a zinc phosphate rust remover/pre-paint primer, RustSeal - the actual paint and if it is going to be exposed to UV then a top coat of UV proof BlackTop - gloss/velvet/matt or TopCoater in various colours; essential also is paint saver aerosol to blow into open can if you are not going to use whole tin....this stops the curing-in-air process in the tin. It won't come off skin once dry till skin grows out so gloves essential.
See KBS home American website for all their products.
Someone recently asked about Wolfrace wheel refurb....they do a special paint in colours (including a silver) or even a clear cote to go on after polishing.

I have no association with the firm other than as a user.

feel free to pm/email me if you have a question on process.....I will try to answer warts-an'-all.

Dennis
U

Friday Morning Quiz! 

 I have unearthed this "Sump Pan" within a selection of parts i recently collected. It is made from approx. 8mm steel place, with a very small sump where the oil pump would have been? 

Im thinking it has came from a car thats been dry sumped ? 

   
   
   

Now know to be car No. AAK 1201  and "Open Road" tourer. A coat of paint and you'll be back on the road: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=101...3313102413

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Austin supplier in wales.

   

So I recall that a smart 2 car cover works on a seven. Is this true. Are there any others? The car is stored outside and i want a cover that wont drag

I have a 1931 engine with a dip-stick which is essentially just a length of rod which rests on the bottom of the sump.

How far from the bottom of the did-stick should the line indicating the correct level be?

I just want to make sure I'm not overfilling it and making the oil leak from the rear main worse than it actually is.

John.