Genuine enthusiast - not a trader - looking for a Mk 2 Ruby to restore/recommission. Any condition car considered.Thank you  Colin Tel: 07847 506 311

Hi all, I took the Special on a run yesterday. I haven't owned it long, and it ran like a top. I even saw 45mph! However a couple of times when I had to reverse there was a loud *clonk* underneath when I engaged the clutch, from the diff or driveshaft area. Not normal I would guess. Could it be worn splines or U joint? I'm going to jack it up to do the front brakes in the coming days, so this may be another job while I have the car in the air...

Hi,

I have a copy of the Chris Gould guide to building an Ulster Replica but unfortunately the page detailing the windscreen construction has been badly damaged and is virtually unreadable.

Not sure if it's allowed but I just wondered if anyone could scan just that page for me.

John.

Hi all
I run a 34 Rp
When either driving out forwards or backwards from my garage the brakes grab when braking.  I do have to turn quite sharply and it's down a incline of say 30 degrees. 
After a while it doesn't do it ?
I'm sure this has been covered many times.

It seems I have 4 American Austin cylinder blocks. Now I know that they are for the most part ,a mirror image of the real Austin stuff.

Has anyone put one on a Ruby case? It looks like if you just flip it around, it would line up.

I know the cases are different...

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
               

My 1937 Ruby differential has about 5 degrees of back lash measured by rotating the flange at the input to the torque tube.  The differential is a bit growly under load and quieter when load comes off. 
Can any useful improvement be made using the adjusters at the back of the differential housing to compensate for crown and pinion wear.   I have read Woodrow and some forum threads and articles, but have trouble deciding whether this adjustment is going to be of benefit in this case or will it cause damage.  I realise that wear in other components will also be contributing to the backlash.  Do people know if the crown and pinion wear is the main cause of backlash?  Is this amount of wear serious warranting a complete overhaul?  The car appears to have only done 90,000 miles in its life so far and from now on will only be used for occasional outings and club runs, probably only doing 500-600 miles per year.
I would appreciate advice from members on this.
Regards
Graham Barker

I have a mate that has a 1920’s 4 cyl Henderson motorcycle engine converted for aircraft. It produces 38 HP @ 2550 rpm.
The engine was fully restored by his brother David.

The engine is not going into a car, it is going in a short wheel base chassis that will require a body to be built.

The question is, will an Austin 7 drive train survive the extra horsepower.

About the engine, it is an Australian conversion by Clancys, OHV. Runs in reverse to an Austin 7 engine. Plan is to run drive from front of engine via two shafts. One either side.



           

On my way to the VSCC Light car event in Llandrindod Wells my journey came to a sudden and noisy end, followed by recovery to home.
On stripping the engine I found a broken crankshaft but thankfully no other damage.  Clearly a new crank is required, but what size should I use?

The car is a 1925 Sports and the crankcase is unique ( well I have yet to find another the same), and has at present an 1 1/8 inch crank.  So, do I replace like for like, or upgrade to 1 5/16 crank, and if so why.  I am interested to hear any views on the matter.

Colin

Hi

I am renovating an Austin Sevon with an Ulster chassis and more recent ulster replica body. The car was in poor condition however it did start and run quite nicely. It doesn’t now! Nearing the completion of the renovation the engine was replaced .The engine is fitted with a 11/4” SU carb. I did a top side overhaul , re ground valves etc. I have though had enormous problem getting the car to run properly.  I set up the ignition pretty accurately I think. First I couldn’t get the car to start at all but by advancing the ignition managed to get her to run. Despite all efforts though she would not accelerate when opening the throttle   I undertook various adjustments to the SU (float height, centralise jet etc) and rechecked the ignition timing. Now when you start the engine it accelerates to almost maximum revs with the throttle fully closed!!! I have found by retarding the ignition somewhat the revs will drop somewhat. What could  possibly be happening? Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks

Martin Nash

Another bargain lathe and open to offers: https://store.lathes.co.uk/adverts/for-s...sion-lathe
It looks neglected but, in my experience, this particular model of Boley usually survives very well and would take little work to turn back into a fine lathe.