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My own fault, snapped valve
#1
Well
If you recall I had a head gasket fail late last year on my 33 RP low compression head and as a result of detecting a depression at the point of failure, I put on a new skimmed head. What I failed to do was test the clearance to the valves. However, all seemed OK, good compression (c 110 to 120 across all 4), and so I seemed to have got away with my error in not testing for clearance.

You can see where this is heading.

For lots of reasons, mainly house renevation reasons, I have only done a couple of hundred miles or so since and nothing since Xmas.
With a local event this weekend I decided to check things out this afternoon. First thing I did was to check head stud torque as I felt it likely things were still settling and very strange that whilst most took a nip up, no 14 took a half turn to 18lb.
Then on running, all was OK for a few minutes and as was about to take a trip around the block it suddenly ran really rough and apparently running on 3. A compression test later and no4 was at 50lb, all others at 120lb.
I took off the head and found below:
   
   

As you can see cylinder 4 exhaust was clearly making contact with the head and finally snapped. I am guessing it was only just but enough. As I say, some here mentioned the head I was using looked like it was tight on skimming and I just didn't think about testing it out until it was already bolted on. Perhaps my last nip up today was enough to make the inteference. No sign of any other contact.

So, to a day I wasn't expecting to need. I'll go through what I have done so far and what I intend to do, on the principle that I missed something stupid last time I would appreciate a numpty review and a possible save for me doing something else daft.

I had a spare new valve and lapped it in. I put it in and half an hour of swearing later managed to get the collets back in place. Turning over by hand and all seems to run smoothly
Cold the tappet no 8 gap is 6 thou using rule of 9.
I have a replacement head coming hopefully tomorrow whixch looks to be in good condition with lots of clearance to the valves and new gasket etc. 
Once it arrives I will turn over by hand to check out the head to valve clearance without the gasket in place by ear and with engineers blue.
Thereafter usual head gasket refit with usual mutliple checks to 18-20lb.
The fact that 14 was relatively loose worries me. It did then nip up easily with no feeling that it was soft. Could the valve hitting the head have rattled it loose as too much of a coincidence that it is closest to the failed valve. I tried to remove it to replace anyway but it is stuck fast and I see a snapped stud to add to my woes if I try too hard.
Advice and comment (notably the bleedin' obvious like I missed last time) appreciated...
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
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#2
Hi Andy
You look to have a problem with the Block not being flat as in the first photo there is a bad gasket leak.
the second photo still shows machine marks on the head
In my opinion when you replaced the first blowen gasket the block was never check for being flat, cleaned maybe
fitting new gasket and  machined head and nipping down worked all right for 200 miles it would have been starting to leak at this point.

then deciding to retighten head  studs at this point the gasket would have been compromized allowing the head to compress allowing valve to hit the head

my recommendation remove all head studs clean block surface and with a straight edge check how flat it is

Hope That helps

Colin
NZ
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#3
I place the head on the block without the head gasket, hold it down with my fingers and turn the engine over with the starting handle.

If you feel it lifting, you will need to remove material from inside the combustion area. If it does not lift it should be fine with the head gasket fitted.
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#4
Thanks both.
Colin: interested to hear where you see a bad gasket leak as I couldn't see one. Not sure if I have missed something or perhaps an optical illusion from the photo. The block was cleaned off of all old material before fitting new gasket last time and a flat edge showed a 'dip' on the original head exactly where the gasket failed. I was going to get it skimmed but removal of the water branch showed it to be badly corroded all around the edge contact area. I ran a flat ruler around the block between the studs as my best attempt to check for flatness and couldn't see any major issues and certainly nothing that matches the clear head problem. I appreciate the approach to check the block but with my attempt to remove no 14 I think I might end up with a pile of broken studs if I try to remove them all. But again thanks for thoughts.

Ruairidh: thanks, I remember your testing process from my previous post so will definitely be doing that this time. I did also do a quick check yesterday and the existing head does move of course with no gasket. It also moved further to the front so it isn't just 8 that makes contact, so I could have saved myself a lot of work had I done the test last time. I have a feeling I will be need to relieve most if not all valve areas. The arrival of the new head is serendipitous since I ordered it a few days ago for the shelf just in case. If that gets here today then I will check it out and test etc and if it 'passes' thern I will use that. If not then I will get to work on the existing head.
Thanks again to both
Andy

R: can I also check what you use to relieve the combustion area. I have seen 20mm silicon carbide disks which look like they might do the job?
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
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#5
I have a set of carbide burrs, for one job a cheap set will do you fine.
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#6
Ah yes of course thanks, I think I have some tucked away somewhere as part of an old dremel kit, might only be HHS but will check out.
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
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#7
Paint the combustion chamber white and cover the tops of the valves with blue, turn over by hand and you will soon see the touch point that you need to remove...
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#8
Thanks I like the idea of painting white to make it really clear. Post due at 1pm...
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
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#9
A quick update.
The new head arrived. I did all the tests but it was clealy so much better than the problerm head. A rough measurement showed the old head had c 6.5mm depth in the valve area whereas the new one has 10mm.
All reinstalled and a 10 mile test run today showed all good.
Just in time to support our local show on Sunday.
thanks again
Andy
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
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#10
Hi

I know it's a bit late (I've just come back from holiday) but one can use a small blob of plasticine to judge the valve to head clearance.

Normally a LC head has plenty of space, but you seem to have one that has been rather enthusiastically skimmed !
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