When trying to remove one of the circlips on the propshaft joint, it snapped. I now have just over half of it left in situ with neither of the holes in the ends left. I have managed to remove everything else from the joint, though.

In trying to get the remains of the clip out, I have tried snapping it with a chisel, gripping it with pliers and pushing it out. So far, all I have succeeded in doing is to chase it around the groove.

Does anyone have any suggestions how to remove it, please? I am considering cutting it with a Dremel as a last resort, but I do not want to nick the actual joint casting if I can avoid it.

Jamie.

Having discovered that my Drummond roundbed has some issues  I have recently gained another... this has a modified cross slide but is missing a tool post. 

I don't suppose anyone has something suitable gathering dust they'd be willing to part with? Or a suggestion as to a good budget unit that might be suitable. 

   

In the land of one's A7 dreams.

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Not my taste

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325909932665?...media=COPY

Cheers

Howard

I haven't got the space and I'm too old now for a restoration but if that wasn't the case, I'd be very tempted by this https://www.brightwells.com/timed-sale/5...-217941265

Looks very solid and is pretty much all there the only bits missing looking to be some script wheels, a correct windscreen and a correct carb. A good buy for someone although at less than estimate perhaps.

Steve

As shops have been celebrating Christmas since early November - and now we have schools closed and travel disrupted by a light dusting of snow - here's an early card that I've constructed for you all.

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A rather fine illustration of the Twin Cam engine, published in The Motor.

   

I've fitted brand new wheel studs all round on my hillclimb special, and would like advice please on the correct torque for tightening the steel nuts (fitted with correct tapered washers, as required for competition cars).
Cheers,
Colin.

We have reviewed the engine in our 1929 fabrid saloon. It was getting very noisy and leaking a great deal of oil.
The work incuded replacing the rear main lip seal, new piston rings, adjusting camshaft end float, enlarging oil pump adusting connecting rod balance and fitting a silicone block base gasket.
This has been successful in that the engine is quieter, smoother and oil tight however we are struggling to get it running properly.
With many years working on Sevens I've never encountered this before.
There were a number of faults.
We replaced the electronic distributer with a DK4. Repaired some carburettor (22FZ) issues.
The engine started easily and ran well untill it was warm. It then lost power and started misfiring and running very rough. This was eventually traced to a sticking exhaust valve. This has happened before and was a built up of carbon on the stem.
   
Cleaning and grinding valves improved things but the engine had a very bad flat spot. Opening the accelerator had no immediate effect but after a delay it was OK. It was spitting back as well. I took this to be weak mixture. That would also explain the sticking exhaust valve.
Today I replaced the jets. Now fitted 7.5 to both main and compensating. An immediate improvement. Running very well. But as it warmed up then started to bog down. Pick up now 100%.
Removed the plugs. Nos 1&2 look fine, Nos 3&4 are sooty. ie Mixture rixh on two cylinders, both on the same port. What can cause that?
   

All idea welcome

Does anyone have a source of affordable wire brushes, suitable for Dremels, that do not shed their wires like confetti? I bought some recently for my Dremel and whilst they worked well enough, the bristles flew out almost constantly. My work coat had them embedded all up the sleeve, penetrating through to the clothing below. I threw the remainder away because they were so unpleasant to use.

Jamie.