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» Forum threads: 1,237
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Latest Threads
Springs - to paint or not...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: bob46320
1 hour ago
» Replies: 2
» Views: 90
Another curious Seven for...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Ruairidh Dunford
1 hour ago
» Replies: 4
» Views: 157
Pricey, but....
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: JonE
1 hour ago
» Replies: 33
» Views: 7,551
DVLA and Modified Cars
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Geoff101
2 hours ago
» Replies: 6
» Views: 257
Green Pea Special
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Nick Lettington
5 hours ago
» Replies: 12
» Views: 630
Log on problems
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Ruairidh Dunford
5 hours ago
» Replies: 8
» Views: 366
Oil baffles and modern pi...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Tony Betts
Yesterday, 09:39 PM
» Replies: 18
» Views: 817
SU Carburettor Conversion
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: JonE
Yesterday, 06:15 PM
» Replies: 24
» Views: 1,151
Longleat 1970 show - any ...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: JonE
Yesterday, 08:20 AM
» Replies: 14
» Views: 537
Float level Zenith updrau...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: john williams
20-06-2018, 10:06 PM
» Replies: 6
» Views: 324

 
  Springs - to paint or not?
Posted by: Dennis Nicholas - 4 hours ago - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (2)

Hi all.  Perhaps a strange question.  In the quest to prevent corrosion  make cleaning easier and for looks I am proposing to paint my new front spring.  The paint I will use is KBS Coatings Rust Seal.  I know from much experience that it does what it claims: it is very tough (can be hit hard with a hammer and will not mark) and it is flexible.  So should not wear off...no chemical will remove it, it has to be mechanically removed.
I have dismantled the spring to its separate leaves and removed manufacturing heat scale and partially polished surfaces and removed the sharp edges at the ends where they rub.
I am wondering whether to paint the whole surfaces or just the bits that will show??   Undecided

The paint being American is difficult to get in UK and this is my last small tin which will be also used on all front suspension/hubs/back plates...so don't want to waste.
One consideration is that assembled and greased (with Molyslip CV joint grease) it is very difficult to carry out the process to clean/prime and paint the exposed surfaces....Moly is very persistant.

Opinions ?  Any snags I may not have considered?   ( Yes all nuts/bolts/washers get the comprehensive prep and treatment and paint before assembly  Big Grin)

Dennis

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  Another curious Seven for sale
Posted by: Mike Costigan - 5 hours ago - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (4)

1929 RK coupe, anyone?


.jpg   236291-1529587148-5577205.JPG (Size: 44.34 KB / Downloads: 128)

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It appears to retain the standard steering column rake and seating position, so headroom must be rather lacking!

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  DVLA and Modified Cars
Posted by: Jamie - Yesterday, 11:39 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (6)

Good evening.

I have recently bought a rolling Ruby chassis with V5C, but no body shell, engine or gearbox.

The V5C describes it as an Austin saloon with a 790cc engine, first registered in July 1935. There is no mention of the model of the car or the number of seats.

Leaving aside any considerations about originality and the pros and cons of rebuilding it as an original car, my current thoughts for it are:
        Fit a Reliant engine.
        Buildi a Rubyesque two seater
        Possibly move the seats rearwards in the car and construct a longer bonnet and smaller cab
        Style it more like a Lombard coupe
        Fit a removable hard-top roof.

I shall be retaining the original, unaltered chassis, axles, brakes, suspension, steering, seats and some of the original body pieces which come with it eg grille and windscreen.

How would this affect things like MOT exemption and are there any other DVLA related matters that I should consider first, apart from notifying them of the change of engine? I have been reading the DVLA guidelines and seem to be getting myself bogged down in a morass of vague definitions.

Regards,

Jamie.

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  Green Pea Special
Posted by: Tony Press - Yesterday, 07:24 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (12)

Now that is an Austin Seven (or nearly an Austin Seven) racing car !  Blush

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Reportedly cost 100.000 UKP !!

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  Oil baffles and modern piston's
Posted by: John Mason - 19-06-2018, 09:53 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (18)

Hi all following on from the thread by Rubyman and his question about fitting oil baffles or not. It got my small brain thinking. I have run my Ruby for the past 10 years without oil baffles and this seems to have no ill effect. Do other forum member think it maybe down to the newer modern type of piston that has the second oil scraper ring at the bottom of the piston below the gudgen pin. Thus removing more oil from the bores.
I await your replies from people with greater knowledge on auto engines particulary Austin Sevem engines.


John Mason

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  Missing Somthing
Posted by: Colin Reed - 19-06-2018, 09:18 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (5)

Hi All,
        May be a bit Dim but cannot work out why it seems OK to fit after market cranks, rods, slipper pistons, heads, SU carbs, superchargers.
But two electrical Items that will be beneficial to a lot owners are jumped on.
Smacks of Double Standards.

Just asking
Colin NZ

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  Tracing details of my previous Seven.
Posted by: Smiley - 19-06-2018, 08:23 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (2)

I had my first Austin 7 RN in 1955/56. Paid £30 for it.  I can't remember the registration number but would like to 
see if it is still around.
Does anyone know if this can be achieved through any organisation by simply giving the names and addresses of previous registered  owners as at 1955/56. Thanks.

Smiley. Huh

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  1928/9 throttle pedal.
Posted by: Stuart Joseph - 19-06-2018, 08:13 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (5)

Thanks to the advice from members of this forum work on our Startin Van is progressing at a pace. The body is now in place, brake and clutch pedals accommodated in slots in the floor but one question remains - how does the accelerator pedal pass through the bulkhead/floor?
Does it enter through a hole or a slot like the brake and clutch?
Thanks in anticipation.

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

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  Crankcase bearing lip repair
Posted by: jboy964 - 19-06-2018, 06:35 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (9)

Anyone know where I might get a crankcase front bearing lip repaired? It is a 1928 magneto engine.

Many thanks, John

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  750cc engine rebuild
Posted by: rubyman - 19-06-2018, 05:59 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (3)

Stripped my Ruby 750cc engine and found the oil baffles damaged, I phoned a Ruby engine restorer and he says he never replaces the baffles when he rebuilds these engines, it gives the engine better lubrication when they are not fitted.
What do people think, should I replace them or not

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