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» Latest member: P J
» Forum threads: 281
» Forum posts: 2,450

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Latest Threads
Brake Cam Lever. cotter p...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: seajayare
57 minutes ago
» Replies: 4
» Views: 128
Fabric Joint Propshaft Le...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Douglas Alderson
1 hour ago
» Replies: 3
» Views: 215
Lucas DK4A side entry cap
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Douglas Alderson
1 hour ago
» Replies: 5
» Views: 166
Rear shock absorber bushe...
Forum: Wants
Last Post by: Ruairidh Dunford
4 hours ago
» Replies: 3
» Views: 72
Propshaft fitting
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Steve Bryant
Yesterday, 02:57 PM
» Replies: 13
» Views: 788
Building a Special Body
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Ian Williams
Yesterday, 03:46 AM
» Replies: 10
» Views: 803
Nickel Stripping and Plat...
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: geowhite
14-10-2017, 10:30 PM
» Replies: 14
» Views: 1,563
Oil on rear brakes
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Bob Culver
14-10-2017, 10:13 PM
» Replies: 5
» Views: 426
Lost Dipstick
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Tattybogle
14-10-2017, 06:12 PM
» Replies: 2
» Views: 316
Dynamator
Forum: Forum chat...
Last Post by: Geoff Halstead
14-10-2017, 12:49 PM
» Replies: 13
» Views: 1,171

 
  Brake Cam Lever. cotter pins & bushes
Posted by: seajayare - 5 hours ago - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (4)

Are there any tricks to getting the cotter pins out of the brake cam levers? I can't even get a good swing at mine because of the bodywork! If I do manage to get the cams and levers apart is the bush a straightforward thing to replace or do you need a press and reaming tools? If you can't replace the bushes with the axle in place I don't think I will bother taking the cotter pins out!

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  Lucas DK4A side entry cap
Posted by: Nick Lettington - 8 hours ago - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (5)

Hi folks. Can anyone help me with lucas part numbers for side enrty caps suitable for a dk4a... I'd ask google, but we have a few trust issues!

Many thanks.
Nick

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  Rear shock absorber bushes.
Posted by: Brian Murrish - Yesterday, 10:46 PM - Forum: Wants - Replies (3)

Does anyone have any experience of using poly-bushes on the shock absorber fixing to the rear axle. My rubber ones, purchased only a few years ago from one of our cherished suppliers, have failed already. The first ones when I rebuilt the car lasted over twenty years. I have had experience of putting polybushes on a Morris Minor and they have lasted indefinitely so I wonder whether a set on the Seven may last equally as long and if so where do I get them from? Members suggestions would be welcome.
Brian

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  Lost Dipstick
Posted by: Tattybogle - 14-10-2017, 12:40 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (2)

I have managed to lose my dipstick.  Yes, yes, I know, how is that possible? What a dipstick!! All you ever do is pull it out, wipe it, put it back in, pull it out again, read it and finally and put it back in again. Anyway, it's gone, and that's all there is to it.

It is for a 2-bearing engine with the dipstick on the offside rear of the crankcase, the sort with a ball top, not a loop.
Has anyone got a spare I can buy please?

In the meantime, I shall make one to keep me going.  Please could someone tell me the length from the crankcase flange to the bottom, and where the level marks are?

Many thanks,
Hanging head in shame.

(I lost the garage key last week but found it eventually in the laundry basket.  Looked there, no dipstick!)

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  DJ4 dizzy to electronic DK4
Posted by: peter burton - 12-10-2017, 04:40 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (1)

Hi Folks,
I have just fitted one of the new electronic DK4 distributors to my RP which has the manual advance DJ4 type.
Well, all seems fine (so far) but I had to make a couple of 'alterations' to get all to fit properly which may be of help to fellow Seveners contemplating doing the same thing. On my car the DJ dizzy has the condenser towards the block resulting in the bolt of the dizzy advance/retard metal clamp being under one of the cap clips.  I found this bolt too tall to go under the DK4 body so used a 4mm long piece of copper pipe slid down a 1" long, 1/4" bsw bolt to enable the body to slide as before. The advantage of this is to lower the bolt height enabling the new dizzy to fit anywhere rather than rotate the body 90 degrees and alter all the leads (the DK4 body being deeper than the DJ).  The only other alterations are slightly easing the pinch action of the adv/ret metal clamp, removing the green rubber thingy and doubling the two lead lengths to make the wiring look neater.
Worth it? Well the engine seems to run sweeter and I have the advantage of fine truning the timing from the comfort of the driving seat!
Happy days,
Peter.
Sunny Cornwall.

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  Oil on rear brakes
Posted by: Nick Salmon - 12-10-2017, 08:27 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (5)

I was reading a 1991 edition of The Bulletin and came across this, reproduced from The Austin Magazine of January 1932. As I have just this issue to deal with I wonder if anyone can shed light on the 'larger nut'?


Question: I find that there is a slight tendency - nothing to worry about in particular - for oil to penetrate from the back axle casing through the hub onto the lining on one of the rear brakes of my 1930 Austin Seven. Though only slight, as I say, I am afraid that this leakage may develop and prevent the brake from acting with its normal efficiency.I have reduced the replenishments of lubricant for the axle, but the oil still seems to get through. Is there any means I can adopt of overcoming this trouble without dismantling the hub or draining the axle?

Answer: Our Service Department can supply a special nut that is designed to act as a further means of stopping any oil that may pass the oil retaining washer in the Austin Seven rear hub. This nut is of a larger size than the axle nut formerly fitted as standard, and when tightened home, makes an oil tight seal with the end face of the hub. By fitting one of these axle nuts in place of that now used on your car, you will no doubt be able to overcome the trouble. When you have tightened this nut home, do not forget to secure it with the split pin.

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  Building a Special Body
Posted by: Ian Williams - 12-10-2017, 03:46 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (10)

On the old forum I had a thread running about the rebuild of my special that I managed to roll whilst racing, virtually writing myself and the car off in the process. The old forum search facility is still not working so I am unable to find the thread and post a link. Anyway several people have asked to see how things are progressing, I admit that there have been a few distractions so not a massive amount more has been done but here is where I am now up to. I anyone wants to see the buck and body development process I will have another go at finding the old thread or failing that repost some of the pictures here.


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.jpg   DSC06285.JPG (Size: 255.31 KB / Downloads: 502)

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  1933 Austin Seven RP
Posted by: TrafficMan - 11-10-2017, 11:01 PM - Forum: Sales - No Replies

For Sale 1933 Austin Seven RP

Fully rebuilt five years ago. New interior. Rebuilt running gear. Rewired.
Sunroof & opening windscreen.
Used regularly.

For more photos or details contact Paul via elwood1996@sky.com or call on 07391 898298

Price - £8000-

               

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  terminal nuts on the back of the petrol gauge...
Posted by: JonE - 11-10-2017, 08:33 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (2)

could someone tell me what type they are? Been trying to find one to fit from spare bits, and can't!
Might have to buy a few.
thanks

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  Cine films
Posted by: Archive Project - 11-10-2017, 12:07 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (3)

Within the Archive Project, we have embarked on a mini project to curate and digitise the Archive's collection of cine films. This is a request that if you have any that you would be willing to share with the Archive, we would be really interested in hearing from you. One particular strand of this work involves film records of the 1972 Longbridge rally. We would be *very* interested if any of you have some of that tucked under the bed...

thanks in advance...

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