'Morning All

I have returned to a previous thread, and find the picture missing.

I remember others making a similar comment in previous threads.

Presumably the Gods of the forum are looking into this?

Nothing to see, though. :-)

What are some attentions that I should give my Austin: oiling, greasing, ect. I would like to hear from owners not from the manual on what is most important  to do or to keep it at top operational status. my Seven is a show car and will get the occasional cruse but wont be taken to the store or to work on the daily as for insurance reasons so it wont require as many attentions (at least i think) what do some of you Seveners think, any help is appreciated.

There is a good section on the 'what have you done...' on retrofitting a thermostat in the top hose. A couple of people have mentioned things getting too hot with it on and thus taken off the mod. Fine in winter etc. 
I just wondered if it might be worth revisiting what people have used, what the actuating temperature was, and if everyone has been ticketyboo/any observations in hindsight etc.
It's a bit difficult to link to it in a huge thread hence this one.

I was wondering if a 1929 chummy would have come with a air cleaner/filter? I don't know if it needs one because my 21' model t doesn't have one. I would like to keep it original and don't want to put something on that doesn't look right. I live in America and we don't have many unpaved country roads well at least in California. do I even need one for shows or the fun time cruise?

To start with, the usual apology if the question is displaying technical naivety, or possibly ignorance but comments and help will be much appreciated. An engine is being put back together, onto a crankcase and crankshaft that may or may nor have seen much service. Con rods ar first glance were identified, at second glance marks were numerous and confusing. Therefore con rods and big ends were offered up to journals, but attempts to find four compatible matches was not possible. Two big ends were tight on each and every journal, one failed to tighten up, tiny but noticeable gap between the halves of the big end. Now how tight should the big end be? Tightening up to indicated torque should not end up with it virtually solid, or would that be eased off by rotation under power and with lubrication? How do the experienced forumists judge the correct tightness of the bearings?

Hi,

I removed the distributor cap yesterday and noticed that the Rotor Arm was very loose on the spindle, in fact you could rock it from side to side through a noticeable angle.  (This was a lateral rock not rotational).

Worried this might allow the rotor to damage the contacts in the cap I very crudely jammed a small piece of polythene between the bore of the rotor and the spindle which took out all the movement but obviously I need to get a new rotor.   I'm also a bit concerned how this happened as it was a rotor I fitted around 1,000 miles ago.

Anyway, there seem to be two types of rotor available, one black as supplied by Seven Workshop and one Red from Distributor Doctor which is claimed to be better although slightly more expensive.   I need to order a few small bits from Seven Workshop anyway so using theirs would also save me some carriage but is the Red type actually better?

Also I'm considering replacing the distributor drive gear as a mine is very worn but I like the fact that's it's made of Bronze which seems like a good idea in the application.   I've also seen comments that the new ones from Distributor Doctor don't always last very long as they are apparently made from un-heat treated steel but has anyone experienced any issues with these.

Finally, I assume the gears supplied by Seven Workshop are the same as the Distributor Doctor ones as both are exactly the same price.

Any advice would be appreciated,
John.

My box is finally a work in progress again so any spare wheels, please let me know

I know the common standard and aftermarket gearbox/ gear cluster choice tables posted on the forum in the past... and I know the Williams book has the wheel factors for 15" up to 19" in all tyre sizes.
I just wonder has anyone already produced a table for comparing ALL the variables? Or at least some combinations?

If only the DVLA had not emerged from the highly over-bureaucratic civil service we could have - like the Americans - almost any number plate we desired. If this was the case, what would the bids be for "AUSTIN 7", "BABY 7", etc. - and what would your choice of registration number be?

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I offer up front that I am a Austin 10/4 owner residing in Auckland NZ.
However my car has the same Zenith Carb 26 VA as several models of Austin 7’s.
Having just got the car back on the road and being expected to attend local club runs, most of which include unsealed, or as we call them here, shingle roads, there is a lot of dust put up if you are not the first car in the run.
I have been looking for an air filter to fit the 26 VA to help push out the next engine rebuild.
I have seen pictures searched on the internet that seem to show a factory model and mention of after market devices provided by some enterprising uk 7 club members.
The problem is the strangler design on the 26VA swings in from out side and any accommodating filter needs take account of the strangler swing slot.
Any advice on where to procure one will be much appreciated.
The uk Austin ten drivers club can’t help.
Kind regards 
Gary Cullen
Auckland
NZ