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Latest Threads |
rebuilt engine leaking oi...
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Manifold Stud Sealing
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Babbit or White Metal Bea...
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I ain't got nobody - Loui...
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What have you done today ...
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Crown Wheel Question
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Crank Regrind of big ends...
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Babbit or White Metal Bea...
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Film of a Ruby rescuing a...
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Material dyeing
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03-05-2024, 05:01 PM
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PROBLEMS WITH FORUM VIEW... |
Posted by: Ruairidh Dunford - 24-12-2019, 12:15 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (11)
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Just a short note to let you all know that some automated (out of our control) changes occurred last night which affect the way browsers display the site.
This means that you will most likely see much more text and less graphics than you are used to - the Forum is still functional and works but you will have to read more to post, view and navigate etc.
Our dedicated Webmaster is attending to other things just now but hopes to get onto this issue at some point in the next few days - he works voluntarily so please be patient and remember that he is currently on holiday with his family.
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Forum Formatting Gone |
Posted by: Chris KC - 24-12-2019, 09:50 AM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (11)
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Is it just me? Since last night the forum has lost all formatting and become almost unreadable. Perhaps it had a Xmas tot too many?
(I'm using Windows 7 pro 64-bit)
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Issue with using wheel nuts with washers |
Posted by: dchw1975 - 23-12-2019, 06:24 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (6)
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Hi,
I am wondering if anyone else has solved an issue I have with the rear rub/drum/wheel fixing??
When competing in sevens there is often a requirement for using washers to prevent wheel loss due to pulling over the standard conical nuts. From my assessment of the standard configuration this it would seem that actually the conical nuts do multiple jobs (maybe why they can fail dramatically when highly stressed).
1) They hold the wheel to the drum
2) The cone on the inside of the nut also acts to hold the drum radially centered on the wheel stud (so that torque is not only transferred by the drum screws)
3) Finally the tip of the cone also reaches into the hub outer where the hole is also a larger diameter than the stud so allowing some movement when loose, locating the back of the hub to the front and the drum.
This means that with my tuned engine I am currently eating my way through drum retaining screws and probabaly will eventually have a failure due to this?
Cheers
David
Cheers
David
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Original Postcard Scans |
Posted by: Tony Griffiths - 23-12-2019, 06:07 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- No Replies
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I thought that somebody might like to download very these very high-resolution scans of a vintage postcard featuring a Chummy. Both could be taken to a graphics shop where they will print you one in full colour up to A3 - and possibly even A2 - for a garage wall or even, if you dare, inside the house.
Original raw scan
Cleaned Scan
Unfortunately, I compiled the Christmas edition from a low-resolution scan from the web before I obtained the original. But here it is, if you'd like a copy.
https://www.lathes.uk/snowa7.jpg
Merry Christmas!
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Timing Big 7 |
Posted by: Hobbo - 23-12-2019, 03:02 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (8)
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Hi , I have got one book that say's timing is at T.D.C., and the other saying 12mm measured on the flywheel B.T.D.C.,which is the correct setting for a Big 7 Thanks, Mike. p.s. All the best to every one what a great forum this is.
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date my car |
Posted by: robert regan - 22-12-2019, 01:48 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (25)
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can anyone out there tell me when chassis number 14139 was constructed the car was first taxed in febuary 1926 and has 6ins brakes and is an original chummy thanks Rob.
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