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  Issue with using wheel nuts with washers
Posted by: dchw1975 - 23-12-2019, 06:24 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (6)

Hi,

I am wondering if anyone else has solved an issue I have with the rear rub/drum/wheel fixing??

When competing in sevens there is often a requirement for using washers to prevent wheel loss due to pulling over the standard conical nuts. From my assessment of the standard configuration this it would seem that actually the conical nuts do multiple jobs (maybe why they can fail dramatically when highly stressed).

1) They hold the wheel to the drum
2) The cone on the inside of the nut also acts to hold the drum radially centered on the wheel stud (so that torque is not only transferred by the drum screws)
3) Finally the tip of the cone also reaches into the hub outer where the hole is also a larger diameter than the stud so allowing some movement when loose, locating the back of the hub to the front and the drum.

This means that with my tuned engine I am currently eating my way through drum retaining screws and probabaly will eventually have a failure due to this?

Cheers

David

Cheers

David

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  Original Postcard Scans
Posted by: Tony Griffiths - 23-12-2019, 06:07 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - No Replies

I thought that somebody might like to download very these very high-resolution scans of a vintage postcard featuring a Chummy. Both could be taken to a graphics shop where they will print you one in full colour up to A3 - and possibly even A2 - for a garage wall or even, if you dare, inside the house.

Original raw scan

Cleaned Scan

Unfortunately, I compiled the Christmas edition from a low-resolution scan from the web before I obtained the original. But here it is, if you'd like a copy.

https://www.lathes.uk/snowa7.jpg

Merry Christmas!

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  SU fast idle adjuster
Posted by: Howard Wright - 23-12-2019, 05:04 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (6)

Hi All

I’ve been playing around with an H series 1 1/4 SU and to avoid using a fuel pump and as suggested in an earlier thread (Solex 26FV) I have mounted it under the manifold in a semi updraft fashion. To do this I’ve swapped the float chamber and throttle levers to opposite sides of the carb body.  This leaves the float chamber level. The choke levers fit in their original position as there is no room to swap those over too.  Unfortunately this means that with the throttle lever on the “wrong” side the fast idle adjusting screw sits in mid air on the opposite side to the cam  Blush.

How critical is the fast idle mechanism?  I plan to retain the steering wheel levers and it seems to me  that the “gas” lever does almost exactly what the fast idle mechanism does only manually?

I’d also welcome comments on whether I need a heat shield as the float chamber is quite close to the exhaust manifold.

Cheers

Howard



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  Timing Big 7
Posted by: Hobbo - 23-12-2019, 03:02 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (8)

Hi , I have got one book that say's timing is at T.D.C., and the other saying 12mm measured on the flywheel B.T.D.C.,which is the correct setting for a Big 7 Thanks, Mike.  p.s. All the best to every one what a great forum this is.

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  Changed plans (we've nearly all been there...)
Posted by: Tony Griffiths - 23-12-2019, 02:28 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (3)

Changed plans -


[Image: changed-plans.jpg]

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  date my car
Posted by: robert regan - 22-12-2019, 01:48 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (25)

can anyone out there tell me when chassis number 14139 was constructed the car was first taxed in febuary 1926 and has 6ins brakes and is an original chummy thanks Rob.

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  Clutch pedal Arm Stop
Posted by: Steve Bryant - 22-12-2019, 03:08 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (13)

Hello all,
I have to make the clutch pedal arm stop or rest that bolts to the bell housing stud on the engine. I have looked through the parts list for 1929  and it doesn't appear to be listed. My engine didn't have one fitted when I got it.

Was this a part that was used on production cars ?
Or was it found not to be required ( just shown in pre - production photos) ?

If it was fitted originally, can anyone give me measurements and a couple of good pictures that I can use to fabricate one?

Any help in this regard would be most appreciated.
Thank you,
Stephen
   

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  (For me) unknown hydraulic brakes
Posted by: Dellie - 21-12-2019, 08:39 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (8)

Hello all,

Can you help my identify my hydraulic brakes?
The front ones look like MGA braking parts but I'm not sure.
There are 2 cylinders/side.
[Image: 20191221-102609.jpg]

[Image: 20191221-102619.jpg]
[Image: 20191221-102634.jpg]

The rear ones are single cylinder with a parking brake lever on the back.
f[Image: 20191221-104051.jpg]
[Image: 20191221-104053.jpg]
There was a hole drilled in the drum for the adjuster.
[Image: 20191221-104057.jpg]


This was the master cylinder, from lockheed.
Austin princess and Jaguar XK120 looks the same.
[Image: 20191221-140027.jpg]

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  Idle curiosity
Posted by: Simon Scott - 21-12-2019, 03:46 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (1)

I recently acquired an interesting book called Building and racing my ‘750’ by P.J.Stephens first published in 1953 about how he went about it. Used it for a year then sold it. The car was registered GMA 219. Not on the register or known to the DVLA. 
Any one know anything of it’s subsequent life?

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  Austin 7 Ute
Posted by: Mark McKibbin - 21-12-2019, 11:46 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (13)

I found this on the National Library Australia site, it says 1924 would that be correct?



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