Being of an adventurist nature - I decide it was time to change the spark plugs on my RN Box.

The plugs fitted are  NGK  AB - 6. Our heritage suppliers seem to offer Champion D16 or D21. Does anyone know the difference between these two??

I had a hunt around the tintterwebs and found an Accuspark AA77C which the British manufacturer says is equivalent to the Champion D16 and is listed for A7 and some bigger Austins. SO I decided to purchase a set. They are 18mm plugs so that is a good start. But my 50 year old plug socket (13/16 inch) went straight on the old NGKs and the Accuspark plugs appear to need a 7/8inch spanner.

More concerning is that the Accuspark plug's reach (washer to tip of the 3 electrodes) is a good 2mm more than the old NGKs.

1. Has anyone had experience of these Accuspark plugs?

2. Are A7 spark plugs for standard engines normally a 13/16 inch socket?

Any advice would be well appreciated.

For those of us not " down under " in NZ, today I received this rather nice 100th Anniversary rally plaque from a friend out there. Note the Austin logo!
   

The Devon Austin Seven Club is holding its next Catch-Up meeting on Monday 17th April at 7pm and welcome members and non-members. 
Joining details below.

Emma Airey Head of RH Insurance has agreed to join us and to give a short presentation. Most Seven Owners will be aware that RH Specialist Insurers have, for many years, been the insurers recommended by the A7 Clubs Association and are no doubt used by many of us to insure our cars.

Emma will be happy to take questions but I am sure there will also be plenty of time for the usual A7 chat.

To Join this Zoom Meeting click this link and follow the on-screen instructions.
https://us02web.zoom.us/j/89069324763?pw...s2bmxmZz09 

Meeting ID: 890 6932 4763    Passcode: 915480

Supercharged Austin 7 Special. An interesting report from 1944 of a car built during WW2. Click the restored image for a readable copy.

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Hello all, Having just read the thread on timing gears and learnt from it that Dave Dye makes such gears It got me thinking does anyone make new gears for the steering box the large gear ( steeringbox worm wheel) which meshes with the worm on the column. Mine is so worn the gear teeth are as sharp as razor blades and I would love a new one.

John Mason.

Based on previous threads I gather the screws at the ends of an RP windscreen hinge are 4BA "specials" (large head).

Mine are both headless and will need drilling out. Does anyone know a source of these screws please?

Otherwise, given that the hole may need re-tapping oversize after extracting the remains, has anyone found a good workaround? What have others done?

Thanks.

Having done some short runs now.
It is evident that the mesh between the crank/cam gears is too loose .
Help please about the best way forward.

Hi, 
I have a trials chummy which is made up from bits from a number of years. Running gear is fundamentally 1929/1930. I have a hood frame with the car which I wanted to try and fit, however it doesn't seem to sit quite right with it being narrower than the body tub. 
I suspect it is an Austin frame but would like to confirm that. 
Also I noticed today that the rear hood supports should the 4 fixing type of the AE  tourer (holes present on the body) rather than the earlier single bold and strap type bracket available from the Seven Workshop. 

First of all the frame, is it austin, is it chummy, roughly what year might it be? I have attached some photos. When it is up it seems to sit quite nicely on the car but the attachment points of for the front wooden beam are narrower than the windscreen up rights. All of the sections are made from flat steel, none are tubular. See attached photos. 

If it is the right frame I could do with getting hold of the right supports with the 4 hole fixing. If it isn't the right frame I could do with tracking down one, and hopefully swapping or selling this one. 

Sorry for my ignorance, I have been around Austins for 27 years now, but never had a "standard" car and really don't know about the production bits. 

Thanks

Tom

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While removing pistons from crank shaft, I was surprised to find underneath the middle bearing housing an empty female threaded hole. I was expecting to find a copper pipe oil feed etc.
The engine has covered many miles in this state without any apparent problem (the reason for current strip down is a porous block).
Anyone any idea why the middle bearing  should have no oil supply.?

I have a 1935 Ruby and I've just removed my fuel pump after 10 years use and stripped it down. 

I know I can get a replacement diaphragm but I also want the two valves and valve gasket, the valves are the assembled type in a metal casing and the gasket that is a one piece like a figure "8" 

I'll require the other gasket for the top and the crankcase but I can't find anywhere online that supplies a complete kit or the valves and their gasket.

Please can anyone point me in the right direction.