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  The Accessory magazine
Posted by: Nick Salmon - 21-03-2023, 10:12 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (7)

According to the internet, The Accessory magazine was published from 1923 to 1956.

It was produced by Brown Bros. Limited of Great Eastern Street in London, suppliers of motor-related tools, accessories and consumables from the earliest days of motoring in the UK.

The magazine was directed at anyone involved in the motor-trade, and to them it was offered freely, whereas anyone not involved in either the cycle- or motor-trade would have to pay five shillings per year for their copies.

At some point (in, I guess, the late 1920s) a series of articles 'Service on the Austin Seven' was published in the magazine. The authors were R.T. Nicholson (presumably the same Nicholson who wrote 'The Book of the Austin Seven and Eight') and J.F. Bramley.

I have photocopies of the 46 pages of the article but I have never seen an original of 'The Accessory'. A7CA archivist Hugh Barnes hasn't either. 

Does anyone possess originals containing the Austin Seven servicing article?


.jpg   accessory-magazine.jpg (Size: 63.9 KB / Downloads: 382)


.png   IMG_20230320_172609545.png (Size: 1.25 MB / Downloads: 381)

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  Piston rings
Posted by: Luke.Seddon - 21-03-2023, 08:37 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (3)

I’m after a little advice.

I’m about to remove the pistons as part of some engine rework, will I need to replace the piston rings or can they be reused? Obviously if I find that they are damaged in anyway I will replace them, but if they look ok can I just leave them alone and save myself a few £?

Thanks in advance,

Luke

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  Clutch thrust race
Posted by: Vancevr - 21-03-2023, 12:51 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (3)

So i have my clutch thrust race out of the car. It doesnt seem too bad but y'all said replace it. So does the whole thing get replaced or is it just the baring? How do i get it out? Also I didnt want to pull the clutch out so i stuck a allen key in the space where the friction material is and it was a little smaller than 1/8 inch. Is that enough to warrant replacement? I would think thats still good but im no expert. Any help would be very great.

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  Brake rivet tool.
Posted by: John Mason - 20-03-2023, 05:42 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (3)

Does any member in the East Midlands have a brake rivet press suitable for use on an Austin Seven who is willing to allow me the use of to reline 4 shoes. I have purchased a single punch with a view to doing the job myself but now realise because of the make up of the shoes this will not work because I cannot get the punch straight on the rivet.  Your tool will not have to leave your place as the work will be done there. It should not take long to do 16 rivets.

Yours John Mason.

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  Cowhorns to chassis ...
Posted by: goodwoodweirdo - 20-03-2023, 10:46 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (7)

Morning chaps,

I'm now moving onto the front end of my project, can anyone tell me the correct bolt that attaches the cowhorn to nose ? as I'll also need to clean up the threads on the chassis...

If anyone has a LHS Cow horn for sale - would be very grateful... (edited)

many thanks Matt

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  Wanted LHS cowhorn ?
Posted by: goodwoodweirdo - 20-03-2023, 10:43 AM - Forum: Wants - No Replies

Morning chaps,

I'm moving onto the front of my build and are looking for a LHS cowcorn if anyone has a used one knocking about, seems i missed a few on ebay...

SWB Chassis...

many thanks Matt

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  Dowel holes in wheel centre
Posted by: Alan Osborne - 19-03-2023, 01:00 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (2)

I have recently acquired two 18" wheels that I intend to use on trials.

Currently, on one of the wheels the centre only has 3 plain holes for the wheel studs and no larger holes for the dowels on the brake drum.

Does anyone have any experience of machining suitable dowel holes please?

Alternatively, I could find a brake drum without dowels but feel this is non-preferred.

Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks Alan

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  Dynamator refurbishment
Posted by: Speedex750 - 18-03-2023, 07:08 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (23)

Having tried and failed to get a consistently reliable 12v charging system to work with a two brush C35 and RB106 regulator I have always fancied the idea of a Dynamator. I have managed to do my A7 driving with no charging, setting off and getting all day on the 12v battery charge (e.g. the arduous Beamish Run) without issue, just that red light shining at you unblinkenly. YES; I do know about the Dynamator gear problems with the angst that has caused but that's easily avoided and I don’t recall anyone saying there had been similar widespread bearing or internal electrical problems so it seemed a good technical step forward. Stuart Giles had had a similar go at a defective Dynamator, posted here, with helpful photos (thank you), that had an open circuit rotor. Accuspark don’t make them anymore and after enquiring about them I get the impression after what happened and what was said that they want to distance themselves from the A7 variety. My opportunity came a couple of months back when a ‘spares or repair’ unit came up on that well known on-line auction site. Once secured, I immediately started a strip down to determine what was ailing it, hoping it would be something easily fixed. It was obvious someone had had it in bits before and not found the fault(s).
It comes apart in a similar way to a C35, go in from the distributor end removing the circlip and disc to slacken the drive gear nuts at both ends. Remove the distributor drive worm (not losing the tiny key) by drawing off the end housing. The regulator and brushgear can be removed from the opened end and the internal body terminals similarly from the ugly external block (take a photo of the connections on your phone and make a sketch of the wiring arrangement!). Remove the four body screws and unthread the rotor. Testing at this point revealed that the rotor winding was open circuit (was this the same Dynamator that Stuart had a go at?). Oh poo. The fault wasn’t visible so I was determined to press on and perhaps rewind the rotor. That necessitated removing the bearing and sliprings. A simple puller got both off though the bearing was very tight on the spindle. But despite a valiant attempt I could not get the rotor claws off the spindle, they were V tight. Having the coil now unsoldered from the slipring I noticed that one tail end wobbled about and with a bit of poking about with a pick I found the winding was broken just where it exited the coil towards the sliprings. Eureka!!! Happy days all round! Further probing released the first turn of the winding and I was able to pull it through and re-establish the winding testing out at 4 Ohms so there was fortunately only the one fault. The body coil and rectifier tested out OK with no more open circuits or earth faults. Reassembly is the reverse of the above. You can get the gear end bearing out by removing the three internal screws and sliding everything off the spindle.
My mission didn’t finish at this point. I didn’t like the four cross head screws retaining the body and replaced them with more aesthetic M5 hex heads. Similarly, the rubberised terminal block looks decidedly non-vintage and I thought the way the connections were made with a soft insulating spacer inside tempted a poor connection. I extended the two outgoing cables and grommeted the body adding a Lucas type ‘brushgear’ coverband and connecting box. The wiring loom also needed reconfiguring. Be careful with the RB106 wiring diagram on the Accuspark site. It implies that the D terminal of the Dynamator should be connected to the ‘power’ side of the electrical system whereas it should be connected through the ignition light loop and the heavy cable from the rectifier should go into the power system. I found by gutting my RB106 regulator that the cabling and terminals could remain as they were with a shorting loop between the F and A terminal making the right connections.
I write this hoping it will help someone else in the future, and encourage them to have a go. Other bits of info that may be helpful are that the gear end bearing is a 6202RS, the same as the C35 and the distributor end bearing is a 6201RS, both being sealed bearings. The rotor claw is tiny compared to most modern alternators at 69mm diameter. The only rotor that I could find on the informative Wood Auto site this size was a Denso for a Kuboto lawnmower! The brush assembly and sliprings look very similar to many advertised on that well known on-line auction site. As Stuart pointed out, the regulator could be replaced by another if you have a problem. BTW, the brushgear is very fiddly to get back into place, compressing the spring loaded brushes while aligning the two screws, wires and plastic spacers is difficult. I put in some slightly longer screws and filed them to a point to help them find the holes.
Mine sprang into life generating over 10 amps initially then settling down with a steady 14.6v. The red light is no longer my constant driving companion! I hope it continues to do so and this helps you too.
Dave

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  Rare BSF quest
Posted by: Ray White - 18-03-2023, 07:04 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (4)

Please help!

I am looking for some 3/16" BSF c/s slot head machine screws.  They need to be at least 3/4" long.  I have 10 but I need another 6.  

Unfortunately, it seems some BSF screws are becoming harder to find.  I might consider buying a larger quantity if needs be.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Ray.

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  Bonnet Corner Rubbers
Posted by: Old Dave - 18-03-2023, 11:44 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (20)

Well we all know what these are!!??

   
   


Silly question  -   How are they supposed to fit?    My bonnet has holes close to the corners and my rubbers are held in place with bifurcated rivets that don't show on the outside.

I am fitting new ones, so can someone please tell me how they should be mounted?    I do have copper and black bif-rivets.



Personal irrelevant note - "bifurcated" was one of my first 50 words as my Dad was an airframes fitter.  I am a Met Man (or was) and one of my daughters first words was " Contrail"

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