***SOLD****


GE Cup bonnet sides, newly made - need to be trimmed to size.

£80 plus postage.

   

Can anyone give me contact details for the Arrow registrar please, or if not then anyone else with expertise in that area.

Peter.

Can anybody recommend a reliable source for rewinding dynamo & starter motor armatures.
Any leads much appreciated. Happy motoring Jim

i may be being a complete twit (it wouldn’t be the first time) but I’ve found this behind the dashboard, no electrical connections or drillings, just a thin spun metal thing mounted on a bracket.

Does anyone have any idea what it is?

Thanks in advance fellas, I’m relying on your extraordinary knowledge and expertise to unravel this mystery!
   

Ideal for someone wishing to test their A7 engines for Road or track use.
We purchased it for our trials car testing but with age and a long distance move it never happened.
When purchased it was set up by a F1 engineer to test Go Kart engines and comes with engine mounts for this.I have an adaptor plate to mount on the bell housing for a seven engine.
The dyno had been reconditioned by Dynamometer Services not long before we bought it and has been carefully stored since.
It is mounted on a substantial box section steel frame and fitted with large castor wheels to enable it to be moved easily.
It comes complete with instructions and can be viewed near Nottingham. £500 ono.
Dave on 01481 249911 or david.dyea7@gmail.com

Hi All

I have a DEL dynamo on both the RK and the Special.  In both cases the distributor is held in place simply by a spring and bolt through the clamp plate. This plate must rotate to provide the advance retard mechanism. On later dynamos the distributor is held by a set screw through the the side of the end frame into a slot around the distributor body.

On the Special I have noted that the distributor appears almost loose and vibrates as the clamp plate isn’t held down well enough by the spring. Even with a quite strong spring there is quite a bit of movement. Fortunately it doesn’t appear to affect the ignition timing.

Has anyone drilled and tapped for a locating set screw on the end frame of a DEL?  If so can anyone give me the exact dimensions for the hole? I’m using a DJ4 distributor which has the slot around the body.

Cheers

Howard

I struggle a bit to set off in reverse cleanly. The car is keen to jump up and down! It can be overcome by using many more revs & slipping the clutch,but this is not ideal.! My gravel drive is suffering as much as my pride!  The car  (1932) has a Hardy Spicer prop and 4 speed box .Absolutely no problems going forward. All rear spring bushes & shock absorber bushes are new.
I am sure this has been covered ad nauseum, but cannot find it!!

Halfway through undertaking a helicoil thread repair on the vave chest side of the top of my crankcase, somewhat belatedly, I decided to put on my glasses and then saw that there are hairline cracks radiating from two of the threaded stud holes to the adjacent holes in the top of the crankcase that accomodate the cam follower guides.
My gut feeling is that these radiating fractures are likely to be terminal but before I consign the crankcase to the metal recycler I'd appreciate the forum's view.

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Hello all, 

I have an early fuel tank in poor condition that I have no use for. I'm unsure if it is still in a salvageable condition, but I thought I'd see if anyone here can make use of it. 

It's missing the fuel outlet, and appears to have been significantly patched over its lifetime and covered with some sort of rubberish compound, I'd imagine that this was done professionally, but can't give any indications to the quality. Some pictures below hopefully to give an idea, but let me know if it's of interest. 

               

I've got an entire rear axle and torque tube that I'm bringing back to life for a new lego build. It is Feb 1927 from the case.
It has two coats of paint which I'm cleaning back around the edges of castings, and i've removed all the set screws on the casing to renew the lock washers (they were all bent over the casing edge!) and get the bolts back to clean metal for a thin coat of black paint. The halfshaft ends are all clean/threads ok so I suspect its just been stored for 60 years.

I'm in mind of something Ruairidh said to me when I got my first Seven about not disassembling too far when you just initially want to get it running (I still think about this practically daily) but exactly how far is common sense with getting an axle back into service? Everything moves ok. But of course it's all accessible now. I'm just wondering whether I should check shims or anything... or get it rolling in a chassis first and and then await noises before doing anything?