I have a new set of Seven workshop Pistons at plus .060" new unused £160 or will happily swop for a set at plus .080"

Seeking continuation from "old" forum thread:



http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...8&cmd=show

which finished with Ian Williams asking that below...
Can anyone add anything? Ruairidh has mentioned the Austin 12 leather disc very recently, but it's interesting that anything hasn't been remanufactured (and its 4 years since this thread)  - have others made their own and to what spec?

"I agree Jim, as far as I am aware a leather Gaiter will outlast the modern alternative hence my question? I intend to make a leather replacement for my 31 saloon. Can anyone tell us if the original split wooden bobbins were a tight fit on the shaft, or if a sliding clearance existed."

Hi
I am rebuilding 1930 Fabric and am looking to change inlet and exhaust  to SU setup with bunch of bananas exhaust

has any one got ever exhaust / inlet manifold to suit su  or 1 1/8 Su

thanks
Olly

Just had the new 2018A mag through the door. 

Congratulations to all involved. 

Don't want to say anything else as it will spoil other's enjoyment/anticipation of opening the post - but likewise, deserves to be said a.s.a.p. because it has obviously involved hard work!

Does anyone know where I can find a manual or any instructions  for a BTH GL4?

Hi All,

I apologize in advance if this is a question with an obvious answer. I have an Ulster Rep and have some issues with the wing supports at the front fouling the the wheels when turned. As I am working on the front, I noticed that the rear wings are not centered on the tyres. The tyres are near the outer edge of the wing, which is a hooded one. While Chris Gould's book mentions that the tyre's should be centered(logically) I began to wonder if there is a reason to have them as they are. I have thought that possibly with suspension travel and body roll, the outside cornering tyre may need the extra clearance.

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'34 Tourer

6 volt positive earth

Dynamo giving about 7 amps on full, zero on half, charge - I assume the resistor has blown.

I will get round to fixing it soon.

The lights all work, at least, they did.   The headlights still work, but the side and tail light bulbs keep blowing.

The battery is supposed to regulate the voltage, isn't it, and why don't all the bulbs blow?

The head and side lights share an earth, and the rear light has a new earth straight to the battery.

Any ideas, anyone?

Thanks,

Simon

Time to pencil in the date for the 2018 Rally. Entry forms will come available on the 750MC website during March and I will let everyone know when they are published.

The main theme this year is 'A7s Up to and Including 1930' so that we can showcase the earlier models around the arena - a feature that has become very popular in the last couple of years.

We would also like to have a smaller display of the very early 'Pram Hood' cars and if anyone is bringing such a vehicle do let Ian Nelson know and we'll make sure you get pride of place.

Note - You may camp from Friday evening to Monday morning.

   

Hi all
Starting to rebuild my new engine and need to purchase new main bearings.. Trouble is I'm not sure which ones I need for the front. The crankcase number is 186772, should I be getting the AC full width or the AC narrow set? Looking at the details on our cherished suppliers sites the cutover seems to be 1934 which I think is about the age of my crankcase....

Any advice very gratefully received

Cheers
Robbie

My 28 Chum has a simple fuse box (CF2?) - uses a piece of fuse wire but wondering what rating it should be.
Also I have been given some flat thin fuses which would fit but i do not know their value.
Any thoughts on how i could find out.
(Don't really want to conduct 'destruction' tests!
John W