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Last year I bought this car described as a 1925 Austin Seven Special.  The car is well built and does not appear to be a home built car.  I decided to change the wings and by accident found that Chummy wings fitted without any modification.  When reading The Austin Seven Source Book, page 90 describes the 1925 Sports.  Unlike the earlier sports models this used front wings type D, rear wings type A and running boards type B.  The length of the tail was reduced from1924 with dimensional changes using 3 tail lengths.  In discussion with Chris Garner he produced some photos of a 1925 sports
We can see that the windscreen on the sports is angled back and the scallop on the doors is different.

I have also found that the car was rescued from a scrapyard at Wing areodrome in the 1960’s and put back on the road.  I assume that the cycle wings were fitted then and a bench seat fitted.  Inside the car the rear seat crossmember is also of reduced height as in the 1924 sports.

So the big question is “What is this car”?  What else should we look for to establish its origin.  Are there any other 1925 Sports that we can compare it with?

Any suggestions

Colin Ayre

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I am not a bodger by nature, but......My starting handle is a bit loose in the (rather moth eaten) crumbly casting. I have seen fix uppers involving sleeves etc, but really all I want is to stop it rattling and dribbling! the shaft can't be removed without taking the casting off, but can I perhaps push in a sleeve/bung made of a plastic, deformable material that is better than (say) plasticine !!!!! Or something with an O ring??

I try to do a leak down test, but the engine always turns, no matter whether it is exactly on tdc. What is the best way to block the engine?

In putting an engine back together, I've gone across the shelf today getting down all the various bottles recommended from the forum for various things. Of course, I didn't note exactly WHAT the thing was that made me go "ooh, must get some of that"...
Will any of these be the most ideal for sticking a paper gasket between block and crankcase?
LS-X
Copper-coloured silicone (which I've used on head gasket)
Wellseal (old tube)
or is something else better?

Which of the above are best for the threads on the block with water behind?

I've also found I've got bottles of Threadlock GP Blue - AND - another of Granville Bearing Fit and Studlock. Are these essentially the same please, or is one stronger?

I have resurrected the Sevens after more than a year and a few niggles (I had forgotten about), have raised their heads.

The BLIC magneto on the Chummy has performed faultlessly for 11 years but has developed a slight miss fire when I advance it more than half way on the controls, it is almost as though it is shorting out out on something as the assembly rotates.

I have been told this is a common fault with BLIC - does anyone have experience of this and a cure please?

Another wacky cover from the American "Motor" magazine. Click the picture for a higher resolution image.
Thos one has great potential....

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Just curious, why would an A7 flywheel have no timing marks?
It's the later 'forward' starter type but pre-Newton Bennett / Borg & Beck.
Before someone says it's been lightened by machining I can see no evidence of same.
Perhaps they just forgot?

After hitting a pothole a week ago my Boat tail developed a horrible clattering and banging from the rear axle, but had to keep going for a few hundred yards before investigating due to the traffic etc.  By the time I got stopped the clattering had also stopped and I couldn't see anything wrong.  I've done another 20 or 30 miles since then and had started to notice the brakes weren't right and the rear brakes seemed to lock on when I came to stop so time for a proper investigation.  The problem was this:
   

I think the problem was initiated by a failed spring as one of the springs that hold the brake shoe was damaged and looked like it had been for some time - probably had weakened with corrosion.  I'm guessing that the shoe wasn't located properly because of the spring and the jolt of hitting the pothole moved the brake shoe enough to jam in the cam/hub area and wreck the cam..  
So new cam, cam bearing, springs etc - when I can get the hub off (which seems less than easy..)
Steve

   
There is a definite kink in the n/s radius arm.
Can this be straightened without weakening it?

Hi all
My name is Peter Britton and I am trying to trace the current owner of my grandfather's car, a 1928 Austin Seven tourer, reg. CF 8404. The family history with this car was the reason I became interested in Austin Sevens in the first place, and I now own a 1933 PD two seater. I had always assumed that the car had long gone to the scrapyard. However, it seems CF 8404 is still listed as taxed with DVLA and the MOT database shows the registration still belongs to a 1928 Austin Seven. Unfortunately, the car is not listed on the A7CA Register.

I would like to know if anyone has come across the car or could suggest a way of finding the owner. I have some history and family photographs that might might be of interest to the current owner.

Thank you in advance for your help.