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Flywheel Timing Marks
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19-03-2021, 12:54 PM
Just curious, why would an A7 flywheel have no timing marks?
It's the later 'forward' starter type but pre-Newton Bennett / Borg & Beck. Before someone says it's been lightened by machining I can see no evidence of same. Perhaps they just forgot?
19-03-2021, 01:18 PM
Chris I too have an unmarked fly wheel,could they be replacements made in the 1950s? We will have to see how the number of replies we get. Could be afew out there.
19-03-2021, 01:21 PM
I'd say mine's an original Bill. My guess would be someone at Longbridge either left the job to an apprentice, or figured they could save a farthing or two by leaving it off...
19-03-2021, 03:13 PM
I tried to quote Alan [but they don't seem to be working?]
I'd noticed that the marks didnt quite match with the top point of the crankshaft. What IS generally trustworthy? - the woodruff key slot? Or? I'd been wondering about a slight lightening of the flywheel and wondered what would happen to marks if this is necessarily done towards the outer of the mass. Presumably one can restamp when one has properly checked. 
19-03-2021, 04:19 PM
just mark it with one of these....
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pentel-Micro-Co...th=1&psc=1 They are great and will mark through oil and grease. I pretty much mark everything up with one when dismantling things. Saves a lot of grief later on. Apropos this specific enquiry, my Riley 9 flywheel is marked TDC and relevant degrees of advance and retard for timing light purposes with one of these and is highly effective... 
19-03-2021, 04:27 PM
+ 1 for the Pentel/Tipex marker. I've used them for years and, like Hugh, mark everything I can. Dot marks on conrods to show which goes where, facing which way and which cap goes with which rod survive indefinitely despite existing in what might seem to be a hostile environment.
Steve 
To find tdc: if you have an early head, get an old spark plug, remove the innards and weld I a bit of round bar so that when the plug is screwed in the bar protrudes a little into the bore. Maybe 1/2 inch. When fitted rotate the engine gently until the piston contacts the bar. Mark that position. Wind the engine back until it goes chock in the other direction. Mark that position. TDC is half way between the two. If you don’t have an early head the same principle applies, just improvise.
Alan Fairless
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