Hi All,

I'm on the hunt for taper pins for the gearbox levers which push on the bearing carrier to disengage the clutch. I've asked a couple of cherished suppliers who don't have these. I'm having some difficulty finding them here in the US. I think they might be No. 3 taper pins about 1.25 inches long. But I don't know what size the small end should be or how to determine the taper. The Austin part number is BH 85. As well, I need to source the washers/spacers which go on the lever shaft. These are part numbers BH87 and BH88.

Any sources are much appreciated.

Erich in Mukilteo

Hi chaps,
 I know this is a rather daft question,, here goes..
How does one take the headlight bezel off a 1929 chummy? Is it a twist, a pull. Help needed as I don't want to break anything...

Sorry its not any more interesting than that!
Many thanks,
Colin x

Austin 7 Ruby Mk 2 for sale. Restored circa 2008, and recommissioned during COVID restrictions, ‘Lady’ was first registered in 1937. A black body and wings with new or rechromed fittings. Benefitting from a reupholstered interior, good running gear and new brakes, she now has to find a new home due to shortage of storage space. £5,500 ovno. Currently in Swansea. Photos available. 
As I am new to the forum, I’m having trouble placing photos on the advert..

Some time in the coming year I need to address rot in the floor of my RP.
In all honesty I have yet to make a comprehensive assessment, but I can confirm there are areas where the road is visible below. 
I think it more than likely that the cills/ sills will need repair or replacement. 
Probably rear arches too.

My question is, simply, can anyone point me to any helpful how-to's, write-ups, or even Youtube videos which go into the nitty-gritty of saloon floor repairs? I've made a basic search but didn't come up with much. I'm hoping to harvest as much wisdom as I can before embarking on the project.

Failing that, does anyone have any helpful experience to share?

Specific areas of interest:
1. Can this be done on the chassis? I'd very much prefer piecemeal repair in situ over a body-off, new floor approach, whatever the shortcomings. 
2. How to maintain door opening shape and dimensions (is it really necessary to weld in braces?)
3. ...and how to avoid locking in distortions which might have been better corrected beforehand (e.g. door droop).

Any thoughts welcomed - thanks in advance.

Just want to check if the rear brake levers on a 1933 tourer should face up or down.
Mine face up, which might explain why the brakes come on when the car is loaded.
Easy fix provided I do not freeze to the garage floor while changing them !.

Martin.

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Hi Everyone

I was just wondering if there are any pictures out there of MA7C club events/gatherings from the 1970's?

My car was owned by Keith Potts from about 1972, I'm fairly sure he would have known about the club and I was hoping he may have gone to some events in the car.

Thanks

Matthew

I finally stripped the engine removed from the car because of high oil consumption both leaking and burning, the leak was from the paper joint at the front right hand corner where the joint had become hard and a small piece had disappeared. The burning was as a result of extreme wear of the piston ring grooves and piston rings the corners of which were as sharp as razor blades a sure indication of ring scuffing. I've only seen one other example of ring scuffing on two 7000 BHP engines on a Royal Navy ship. The question is why, we know why the ship suffered from ring scuffing but I've never come across it on a Seven engine, could it be from running on E10 petrol which this car has run on since E10 became available?

I have just dismantled a spare steering column I acquired some time ago.
I think something must be bent. Seems to be sticking in the lower bush.
I can turn the inner column all around applying considerable force to a spanner on the wheel nut, however, in one small area it is free for about 10 degrees of movement.

Is it possible to ease this by reaming out the outer column lower bush?
That appears to be where it’s sticking.

Plan was to take out the free play in the worm gear using the valve paste technique then replace my current steering gear.

Any advice greatly accepted.

Motor racing at Brands Hatch in the 1950s, lots of Austin Seven specials for people to identify:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=js95BPXgjkQ

Dear Member-Club contact and A7CA Reps,

• Please read the notes about the Stanley Edge Memorial costs and proposed design - comments and ideas should be fed back through me, a vote on this spend will take place after the April AGM.
  
• We are still looking for an Insurance Liaison Officer to take over from David Mawby in April - a job spec is being prepared by David and will be sent out to you all for publication in your magazine soon.
  
• Clubs agreed to the £60 bank charges - as requested by the Treasurer.
  
• The Austin Seven Club of Ulster was welcomed as our newest full member Club - details of them and the activities they undertake will be published in a future A7CA Magazine.
  
• Chris Dickinson was duly elected as the Events CoOrdinator.
  
• The hunt for an Assistant Magazine Editor is still on - Howard is preparing a Job Spec. This will be sent out to you all for publication in your magazine soon.