Oil pressure query/concerns:
I’ve recently acquired a 1934 EB65. The engine was replaced in 1954 by Cambridge Engineering. Engine number is 212402. (Dec 1934) 
Vince Leek fully rebuilt this late 2000 which included Phoenix crank 15/16”, Taiwanese pistons and several other performance modifications.
It’s also reported the oil pump is modified, extended, bored by 1/32” and vane moved further off-centre. It has also been fitted with an oil filter (mini)
The previous custodian Ray Liddon passed away before he fitted a 0-20 psi oil gauge (shows he purchased one on one of the many receipts). The gauge it came with 0-10 psi & always depicts the reading off the scale. I believe it may have dropped to about 8psi on idle on a recent run.  Ive recently acquired a 0-20 gauge. When cold the needle is off the scale and comes down to about 8ish when warm (although this was just running in my drive for about 10-15 mins so perhaps not properly warmed up) reving the car and the gauge goes up like a rev counter to 18-20 psi (again in my drive after about 10-15 mins running). Is this pressure normal/to be expected for this type of oil pump mod? 

Anybody got photos/drawings/sketches of the late Ruby/Pearl door card oval carpet?
Is it just stuck to the door card vinyl or is it inserted through?
Also it would be useful to have info how door pocket fixed to the door card.
As you will gather just doing some restorative work on the cockpit of our Pearl!

A little collective advice needed.

A friend, who has run a Big 7 for years, has seen the light and bought a project Baby 7. The engine was apparently rebuilt but ran very noisily. We stripped it down and found that a new crankshaft had been installed but there were many problems with the engine assembly, including oval, oversize small end holes in the original, Austin rods, enlarged valves fitted without relieving the head, high lift cam without shortening the bronze cam follower guides, massive timing gear backlash etc.
The engine had been run, maybe 500 - 1000 miles but had obviously shown problems. 
My friend removed the big end caps and has found that the hardening on one of the crank pins appears to have failed and the pin is pitted and slightly scored. This might be due to corrosion; the corresponding metalling appears OK. 

So, the question is: Can we regrind the crank -0.010 and run it without the hardened layer? Has anyone done this? Could it be ground and re-nitrided? 

The crank might be a Phoenix (it isn't marked as such) or might be one of Tony Betts.

Any thoughts, Ladies and Gentlemen?

   

   

   

In the midst of the cold, the snow, the mist - and the floods - let's look forward to the summer:

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Hi

I was just wondering if anyone knows the original size for the rivets that hold the handbrake bracket onto the chassis?

Thanks

Matthew

]George Mooney died suddenly yesterday. A long time member, past committee member of the Dorset Austin Seven Club who was one of our most active members. He would always jump in and help out at short notice. Will be sadly missed.

Hi All. the SWA7 Club has a large backlog of complete  Association Magazines.  From 1970 A- upto 1999 D. we need to dispose of them so open to any offers. As one lot. or by  the  year. Please pm me for more information. Thanks. Stuart

Hello everyone, my dad Erich and I are on the middle of an Ulster Rep rebuild, and we've run into an issue mounting the gearbox to the engine. 

With the gearbox fully seated, the clutch bearing in the gearbox is pressing down on the clutch arms just enough to cause it to slip, without depressing the clutch pedal. 

It seems like the release bearing we have won't fully seat onto the assembly, as there is a bit of a gap between the base of the assembly and the top of the bearing cage, even after hammering it on.    

This setup looks to be a later type clutch release, with our setup using a leaf spring instead of the coil spring to pull the bearing back.     

The clutch assembly is also a later type, with mousetrap springs and roller surfaces on the clutch arms, but no blind spline on the input shaft.     

Since we are using a 3 speed crash box with the later type release, which was made to work with 4 speed gearboxes, we were wondering if the distance between the release bearing and the clutch arms could be widened in some way to avoid pressing into the clutch. Any help would be appreciated!

Cheers

Ned Volkstorf

What is the weight of a bare RN/RP front mudguard? 

I need to have one couriered to me by Shipley.

Thanks

Just found a February 1933 Light Car cover. It makes an interesting contrast to the 1934 edition shown to the left. Presumably, the 1933 car will be an RN? If I manage to acquire the original—that looks to be in pretty poor condition—some work in Photoshop should restore it. Click the picture for a higher-resolution copy.

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