Hi,

My wife has asked me what I'd like for Xmas and I was thinking about a cheap action camera which would really only be used on the car.

I did buy a very cheap one a few years ago but although it looked quite well made the results were extremely poor and eventually I got a refund from the supplier.

I really would like to pay under £75 and have seen reviews of the Qinux PixGo 4K, the AKASO EK7000 and Wolfgang GA100 which are around this price but seem to get a mixture of both "very good" and also "disappointing" reviews.

Has anyone and experience of an action camera in this price range and would you recommend one?

John.

The gentleman who ones this fine machine finds himself in a situation where he must clear the space that it occupies -  hence it's now offered for just £350 (and you might even obtain it for less).

I've put this on the forum first - before the advert is changed from £750 - so, if anyone would like to take advantage of this - get cracking!

For Sale: Hayes Diemaster Precision Vertical Milling Machine - a compact, high-class miller tool in full working order. Retrofitted with an infinitely variable speed motor drive. Table 21 x 6.5 inches. The swivelling vertical head has a No.2 Morse taper and fine down-feed through a worm-and-wheel gearing. Complete with a machine vice, an ER25 collet set and a clamping kit.  The need for the room is now beyond urgent and the price is now reduced to the staggering bargain of just £375 (currently listed at £750). Phone: 02392-823331 (Southsea).  Pictures of the Hayes Diemaster for sale here and details of Diemaster millers here.

2282
My car is a 1930 model AE fitted with a later 1934/35 engine. 
The  manifold/exhaust flange connection is a little bit further forward for this later engine than for the correct 1930 engine, hence the standard exhaust pipe needs to be lengthened a little. (as mine has been rather messily)
My question is: Is the exhaust pipe for the longer wheelbase cars the same profile as that for the short wheelbase ones except for the pipe length and could it be modified (with a hacksaw) to the correct length.

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Hi All

Grovelling under the Green Van last week I noticed a strange vertical line on the near side chassis leg just behind the brake cross shaft.  Further examination revealed some serious corrosion skilfully hidden under globs of underseal and a crack.  


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I did wonder if I could repair in situ but I’ve taken the plunge and am removing the body.

The corrosion is visible from just aft of the front cross shaft to just before the spring housing although I’m sure more will be revealed when the body is off.  Strangely the offside of the chassis looks to be in reasonable condition.

So how would forum members go about repairing this?  I’m assuming that new steel will have to replace old but what steel would be best to use (ordinary mild steel or something higher yield).  I’m tempted to weld a 38mm square box section into the U shape chassis profile.

But if someone has a good condition near side short wheelbase chassis leg in their shed?

Cheers

Howard

Just arrived in Melrose (Scottish borders) and parked up in the Caravan and Motorhome site and decided to go for a walk before it got dark.
Not quite to the main road when an Austin 7 (RP ?) went past heading away from Galashiels.
Too far away to get the reg number, so wondering who it was ?.

Martin, GM6VXB

Make Austin's great again! Some would argue that they always have been, but the world is a very unpredictable pace and the future is not always what we expect. It feels like a time to put aside our difference's and work towards a common good. My good is Austin 7's and seeing them used and conserved as much as possible. Oxy moron I know.

They say there’s no such thing as a silly question, so here goes. Do the nice dome head screws that’s hold the badge in place go into captive nuts? I’m assuming they must but worth checking

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Hi Chris.  Have just sent you a P reply to your Nippy cills enquiry.

I have had right leg amputation but though 80 still want to drive my Nippy special. I am researching the possibility of being able to continue driving a manual car.  I  know there is a push/pull brake/accelerator hand rod system and companies that fit it BUT I keep getting told by the various telephone answering ladies of various orthopaedic organisations and mobility companies that the system can only be fitted to AUTOMATIC vehicles and that I would not be able to drive such a manual vehicle because at some time it would involve both hands being off the wheel.  I know of a manual Citroen Berlingo wheelchair accessible vehicle (WAV) that used to have the rod conversion, belonging to a NHS affiliated training centre but which had controls removed because there was little demand for it for training so it was not cost effective to keep it (No wonder no demand if all amputees were told only for automatics!!).,
Does anyone know of anybody with right leg amputation out there driving a manual car with the rod system? Any make as I also have a modern and a manual Reliant Scimitar.
I will soon be swapping my modern for a WAV (at my own expense) so need to know the REAL possibilities.  If it is really not possible to drive a manual, but I don't believe it, I am considering converting the Nippy to automatic as it already has a BMC A+ 1275 engine with 1000cc flywheel, just totally rebuilt but awaiting breaking in by the builders and me obtaining a much shortened prop-shaft to fit behind the current Toyota T50 gearbox. It also has a Mini MK1 pedal box and hydraulic brakes and clutch.  I am sure there is an autobox for an A+ engine (Ital, Allegro...etc). but yet to look into that.
So if anyone knows of a right leg aputee out there driving a manual of nany make please let me know.  I am in the Torridge area of Devon not far from Holsworthy.
PS sorry if I upset any purists by having the A+ engine etc but there was a very good reason for the Nippy becoming such a special.      and I have had a lifetime driving proper A7s.

Dennis

I have just got hold of a pair of tatty side draft Zenith Carbs.
They have spent several hours in the work ultrasonic cleaner which has got rid of most of the dirt and made most of the fasteners able to be undone.
The spacing is almost spot on for the Austin 7 block.
I have taken the bronze angled adaptors off to check the flange pattern against my twin carb tubular manifold.
The flanges on the manifold will need to be re made and the stubs shortened by about 5/8" to get them to fit under the bonnet.
The carb spacing can be altered on the joining link to suit the engine.
The good bit is the bore is a match to my manifold and the Venturi size is 20mm and the Venturi is removable on this type of carb but I expect they are corroded into place.
The spark arresters are brass so they can be made to look nice.
This will make for an unusual carb set up which will look more authentic than SU carbs.
Its possible these might have come off a Riley or MG of about 800cc
The fitted main jets are 80 so not very big for the Venturi size I have been unable to read the compensating jets yet.
The only downside with this set up is the throttle linkage is at the front of the engine so that will involve some sort of cunning bodgery to sort out.
Any one have any clues what car these might have been fitted to ??
As usual I might well have wasted a load of ££££ time and effort !!!