Two Rubies are selling on ebay at about the same time early evening today - one black and one with a chromed radiator cowl.  I wonder which will fetch more - if it were me, I would prefer the black one.

   

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365178012398


   

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226405698541

Doubt if I will get many runs out in the car until next spring, so wondering what most do to
get the car ready for laying up over winter. Already had a few high winds with the usual salt
spray, and know the councils around here do like to treat the roads in liberal amounts of salt.

Presently looking at doing oil changes on engine, gearbox, and rear axle.
Do I leave water/antifreeze in, or drain the system.

Body and underside have been cleaned, so not sure if worth giving it another coat of
'Lanoguard' or similar.

Going to jack the car up and put it on axle stands, so tyres will not end up with flat spots.

Leaving the hood and side screens up to keep the inside fairly clean.

Battery is on a conditioner so 'should' be ok over winter, but always worth checking.

Got a fairly good car cover, but during the winter gales we get a lot of salt spray (enough to
coat house windows so you cannot see through them), so wondering if there is a better protective
solution. 
Was wiondering if worth putting a small heater under the cover, but obviously a fire risk.
Garage unfortunately is not heated and even with all doors closed can be a bit draughty.

Any other suggestions ?.

Martin.

A little while ago, I obtained a Mag engine and gearbox that had been used in a sea going boat. The engine was complete with magneto and dynamo, but was seized solid. Apparently it had been cooled by sea water! I assumed it was an engine that had been removed from a car and adapted for boat use. Everything on the engine had been painted green, which I thought odd. It transpires that Austin 7 marine engines were painted green by the factory. 
Anyway, the cylinder block, head and pistons where beyond salvaging, but the conrods, crank and front gears are exceptionally good.
On the Magneto, there is an automatic ignition advance mechanism, the like of which I have never seen before. The mag is A Lucas  Model SR4 type Mk IIA 10 57 Lucas number 42290D. I assume the original Magneto was replaced around 1957.
I started stripping the Mag, and found a slotted screw central to the main nut securing the mag' drive gear. Whist attempting to remove the said screw, it snapped off at the head. Having continued and got the drive gear and advance mechanism of the front of the mag, I then removed the rotor with the view of drilling out the broken screw. Centre popped the shaft, and started to drill out the remains of the broken screw. To my surprise the broken screw screwed itself out!. It turns out to be a left hand thread of 3/16th BSF.
After this long winded introduction, does anyone know where I can obtain a replacement L/H thread 3/16 BSF Screw?
Another oddity I noticed, The dynamo has a toothed cog sticking out of it's end, a form of REV Counter Drive perhaps? 
I do not know how to load a picture of the ignition advance mechanism on to this page

Hi All,

This may seem a rather esoteric question, but as I am sometimes prone to do, I'm a bit of a rivet counter. How are the door cards in an EA Sports attached? I know that the three aluminium dairy hose clamps( and the hose) hold the upper part. However, the body is curved and the plywood is flat, so how did they originally attach the cards to the sides of the cockpit? I'm guessing that either they were glued or used the rivets which attach the body to the pan. The latter doesn't seem reasonable, and I have not found any evidence of other fixings on genuine cars, so I'm guessing that glue was used. Why am I doing this on an Ulster Rep? Partly for authenticity, partly for my own education as I have a genuine Ulster(EA Sports) in the restoration stage. Glueing would seem to be the preferred method as it would help strengthen the body. Why they didn't do the same with the spare tyre opening...well, they probably didn't expect the cars to last ten years, let alone more than 90 years. I have viewed Graham Beckett's car with various strengthening plates added to keep the tail on.

Any help is much appreciated.

Erich in Mukilteo

I tried to remove the spring pins on my A7. One side worked well, but the other side still does not move.

- I heated up the casing and cooled down the pin
- Used an extractor (large enough tube with big washer) to tear the pin out
- Used a hammer and a drift punch

but still there - any other ideas that might do the job ?
or is it now time for the cutting wheel ?

thanks, Oliver

   

I'm fitting Morris Minor 7" brakes to my Austin Seven Special. As I understand it, the Morris has a 13/16" diameter master cylinder.
Can anyone with a similar set-up please let me know what the correct pedal ratio is?

Also, are there any modern type track rod ends available that will fit the Austin drag link in place of the original type? i.e. with the same taper.

Thank you.

A seemingly very nice car spoilt by what appears to be an AI manufactured description  

Car Riley IMP 1935 for sale - PreWarCar

Ulster style dashboard.
Selling for a friend.
£65 plus postage.


  ba15e272-207b-496a-8925-ca93688c9879.jpeg (Size: 240.21 KB / Downloads: 158)

£35 each, plus postage.

           

Repeat this evening of the Chummy restoration project on Car SOS - More 4, Channel 18 at 6.55 pm.
...also includes my five minutes of fame with me and my '25 Chummy!!