Hi

I am renovating an Austin Sevon with an Ulster chassis and more recent ulster replica body. The car was in poor condition however it did start and run quite nicely. It doesn’t now! Nearing the completion of the renovation the engine was replaced .The engine is fitted with a 11/4” SU carb. I did a top side overhaul , re ground valves etc. I have though had enormous problem getting the car to run properly.  I set up the ignition pretty accurately I think. First I couldn’t get the car to start at all but by advancing the ignition managed to get her to run. Despite all efforts though she would not accelerate when opening the throttle   I undertook various adjustments to the SU (float height, centralise jet etc) and rechecked the ignition timing. Now when you start the engine it accelerates to almost maximum revs with the throttle fully closed!!! I have found by retarding the ignition somewhat the revs will drop somewhat. What could  possibly be happening? Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks

Martin Nash

Another bargain lathe and open to offers: https://store.lathes.co.uk/adverts/for-s...sion-lathe
It looks neglected but, in my experience, this particular model of Boley usually survives very well and would take little work to turn back into a fine lathe.

An article in today's DT how the width of cars is forcing drivers to enter those parked in bays through the boot. I copied their graphic and added a 1934 Ruby.

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Me again.

I am at the stage of putting the spring pin through and locking with the cotter pin.

When I diid this on the off-side a few weeks back (I have been on holiday) it went fairly well I thought. I supported the axle, and with my A7 screw jack under the eye of the spring, I slowly jacked the eye and bushes into place and amazingly the spring pin went straight in position no problem   -  beginners luck!?

This time the car is supported on the rear frame by an axle-stand. The axle is supported on an axle stand and I have compressed the new spring jacking it into plave with the A7 jack again. Result is as the attached photo - not a long way off but.........

Is my mistake in having tightened the u-bolt first? Although I don't think that would give me 1/8" to 3/16" of wiggle room. Just when I thought I could see the finishing straight. Chicken and hatcheries come to mind.

Any advice welcome

   

Hi,

I don't want to cause controversary, but whose car has done the highest known mileage, please?

Colin

For Bill Sheehan's friends around the world- Bill's eyesight has seriously gone downhill.  He is still in good health and coping well but cannot always get to his phone and misses many calls. 

He is being helped around the house and hopes to move to a better location. 

As a secondary issue he has two books on Austin 7s almost finished and I have arranged for Bob Watson (who wrote the Club History 'Going Strong') to work with Bill on finishing and publishing with the Clubs assistance these two valuable contributions to the story of Austin 7s in Australia.



Tony P.

Hi,

I have traced the transmission vibration on my special to collapsed bearings in the prop shaft's UJs.
It is a late ruby type hardy spicer prop. 
I have removed the shaft and have it on the bench but I can't for the life of me see how to remove the bearings to replace them
Not much brute force , but plenty of ignorance.
Has anyone got any suggestions please?

As part of my refurb of the RN Box I need to remove and refresh the hubs - the off-side one was straightforward, but the near-side has a damaged thread at the start which is preventing me screwing on the hub-puller.

I have heard of people using a triangular file or a junior hacksaw to clear the way but never had the confidence to attempt it.

See photo

Do clearing die exisit to save the day?

   

Any advice would be appreciated.

This looks to be a nice honest car with, apparently, full history and a very reasonable reserve:

https://www.prewarcar.com/556700-austin-...aloon-1931

   

Greetings all. SU experts are requested to comment. I've just acquired a 6v SU fuel pump which does actually run. The incredible thing is that it is made from brass rather than the alloy or aluminium that I've always seen SU pumps made from previously. It's heavy!
 
Anyway, I'd love to find out what it might be from (Morris?), and whether it is positive or negative earth. From the cap it seems to be low pressure, I guess. I don't know whether that means it's mounted on the firewall or at the tank. Probably at the firewall. It doesn't matter to me anyway, since I have a gravity tank, but with the SU carb mounted rather high.

I've photographed the only markings on the pump that I can see (including some of the hammer marks when it obviously jammed!). Thanks.

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