I am going to replace the top that someone put on a long time ago. It has hole where I drove under the mirror of a lifted truck and  put a hole in it and when putting it down it got cought on the frame and tore. Can I see some pics of some 1929 tourer tops. Mine I know is the wrong one for the car. I would like to see some pic of what it should look like originally

Just properly stripping a wheel down with the thought of putting new rim on and respoking. The return on the outer fold is perforated for 5" on one side only. While disassembling, I was struck by how solid the thing was despite 90 years of internal surface rust under the tube. 
Talking with someone about where exactly the loading is, they remarked that cars essentially hang from the upper spokes.
So that suggests that the spoke 'holders' are crucial first.
My question - IS it possible to safely repair a rim - and in what circumstances? I'm assuming the remaining 1928 metal will be of better quality than that of new ones today.

Hi
Can any one send me some good pics of a boot latch or advise what I’m missing 
This is all I have

I've just been lucky enough to buy an APD Tourer. I know that originally they had a rear-view mirror that attached via a casting on the offside windscreen pillar. The car I have bought has the casting on the pillar, but the current mirror is a latter addition secured to the pillar by two screws - what I would call a "standard Desmo fixing".

Can anyone supply a photo of the original method of attaching the mirror arm to the windscreen pillar casting?

Speaking today with Mark Dixon, deputy editor of Octane magazine, he confirmed that Octane will be running a large article on the Seven in their September issue, ( I think) basing the content on him personally attending the Centenary event on the Saturday in a Seven.

Well after an unsuccessful drive at guildtown. It's time to tackle the supersports engine.

Yes it's an original ulster engine, and I'm sure many would be afraid to use it. I've always had the same view there. If it's not being used. WHO is it being saved for.

anyway let's start with the problem, late last year I started to get the problem that the engine wouldn't start as quickly as it had, or even without choke. I put the car away in November. And in march a customer asked if I could start it for him. When I tried it refused totally with a no start. It sputtered a few times. Then nothing at all.

I checked the carb, fuel was going through fine. I checked the distrib. The rotor needed cleaning. And the engine started.but ran poorly.

So thinking it was an electrical problem, I started changing plugs, no change. Cap and leads, no change, condenser, no change. Coil, no change. I didnt change the contacts, but they were cleaned and adjusted.

Symptoms from here are, the engine starts with no throttle. But when revved it is rough, and the revs are not responsive, slow to build, then everything.

I gave it a road run before going to scotland, and it was the same on the road. Lumpy to get going but when it did it ran at 70mph as if it was a new car. So I thought I'd get away with the scotland weekend.

Sadly no, took the car into Perth friday. Alot of traffic. And everything just got worse.

I decided not to do the run Saturday, as I didnt want to risk a bigger bill. The only light relief was we got a trophy for car needing the most work  

I've always felt the carb is far to rich, I've had the block off in the past to fix leaks, and the play in the bores was HUGE, and the distrib had plenty of slop in it.

So when I got back this week, the decision was to strip everything out and start from scratch.

Let's see what's working, and what's not.

So tuesday the 30 MOV carb came off, and was sent to the countries expert on these carbs. All being well a couple of weeks time it will come back ready to go.

I also phoned to made sure I could get the block in for a rebore, the answer. Drop it off saterday morning. Should be 1 1/2 to 2 weeks.

So here's the strip down, as of today.

   

I have come across and unstamped Crankcase with 1926 foundry marks, this is the first one I have seen with no sign of an engine number anywhere. Have others come across similar crankcases or have any idea what they were used for?

One of my latest acquisitions and what a cracker!

     

Has anyone got a useable rim for a closed nose wheel?

Lucas 582 rear lights - does anyone have an earlier threaded cap/s which house the jewelled glass lens?

thanks

Hi All

I’ve run the Brookfields on a DJ4 manual advance distributor since I first put it together.  I thought I’d try an automatic advance DK4A. This is partly due to the increased tendency for the engine to knock using E10 fuel.

I have three DK4A distributors, two I believe are A7 originals and one from somewhere else. Top left in the photo is BN 86 838 8, top right is BN24 756 and what I believe is non Austin is the lower one marked BN30 435.

Both the distributors in the top of the picture have fairly sharp cam lobes whereas the lower one has more rounded lobes.  The top two show an arrow indicating anti-clockwise from below there is no arrow on the lower one but the Bob weights are in the same orientation as the other two.

Could anyone please indicate which are suitable A7 distributors and what effect the sharp cams v rounded cams would have on performance?

Cheers

Howard

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