Clutch rattle

[Reckless Rat]

Vancevr, A good rule is that if you're not sure what you're doing then it's best left alone. There is no need to start dismantling the gearbox if there is no good reason. Replacing the release bearing (like for like) is not a difficult task. However, if you get the engine/gearbox out and up onto a bench, then it's a good time to check and re-adjust the tappets, and to generally have a tighten up all round (don't go crazy with the wrenches)

If your engine/gearbox are relatively oil tight then you're good. A completely oil-tight A7 engine is achieveable, but the old saying goes that if it's not leaking it's because there's no oil in it...

Having the engine on the bench you could also remove the sump (oil-pan) and clean the gauze filter, if that has not been done recently. Remember to replace the bolts in their repective places (particularly the one directly below the flywheel, and use a silicone gasket if you have one. DON'T overtighten the studs or you could strip a thread, as that will open a can of worms. You've been warned!

When replacing the gearbox it's a good idea to rotate the crankshaft so the "blind spline" is at the top, and do the same with the gearbox 1st motion shaft. The two should then marry up easily. Put the gearbox in gear beforehand and you can then rotate the 1st Motion shaft by turning the output flange.

Be careful and good luck.

PS

Have you got a copy of "The Austin Seven Manual" by Doug Woodrow?   If not, it might be an ideal Christmas present to yourself.

[Vancevr]

After my semi recent oil change my car has developed quite the oil leak. When i park it after a drive it will have a puddle the size of a small plate. Should I but the engine gaskets (either top end or bottom) as well? I will have the filter a good clean when I get it out of there.

[Reckless Rat]

Perhaps it would be prudent first to determine where the oil is coming from, although if it only started since you last did an oil change it suggests that the source of the leak is at the oil pan joint. Who did the work?

[Vancevr]

I did the work. I asked y'all before doing it on what oils to buy and stuff. I also changed the tranny oil too

[Charles P]

The best way to repair a 3spd clutch bearing is to replace it with a 4spd bearing which does'nt rotate all the time the engine is running.(see attachment) ignore any reference to Renault this is a race conversion that uses the same setup.

I agree entirely

C

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Did you take the oil pan off?

If you did, and over tightened a bolt, it can crack the fragile crank case casting, resulting in a leak.

If you took the oil pan (sump) off, did you use a paper or a silicon gasket when replacing it?

I use a thick silicon gasket, it helps keep the oil where it should be.

Have you put too much oil back in?

They will all leak oil.   When we first used these cars, most other "modern" cars also leaked a bit.

Now, oil leaks are uncommon.  So maybe we worry a bit more.

A dinner plate sized leak would make me have a look and try to do something about it.

A saucer sized stain - probably not.

[Reckless Rat]

In answer to your earlier question about other engine gaskets, no need to buy any unless you can identify a specific problem with one of them. The crankcase to engine block gasket can only be replaced following a major engine strip. I'm not sure you really want to do that unless it's really necessary. I would however consider replacing the valve chest cover gasket with a silicone one.