Clutch rattle

[Vancevr]

I have been driving my seven and the rattle from the clutch thrust race has been getting worse. It stops when i push it in. I already tried to oil it but to no avail. I was told that I need to replace it. Can I do this with the engine still in the car or do i have to fully disassemble. I do not have an engine hoist so this would be mostly by hand. Please tell me what to do.

[David Stepney]

Yes, you will need to remove the engine. I usually remove the engine and gearbox from the car together and separate them once they are out, as it makes aligning the master spline on the clutch driven plate easier. Replacement of the clutch thrust bearing is fairly straightforward. The engine and gearbox unit is not too heavy and is manageable between two people without the need for an engine hoist. Leon and I have managed it between us and we are both only about 8 stone each.

[Reckless Rat]

Not exhaustive and may need to be modified for earlier models (this refers to a 33 Saloon)

Austin Seven RP Engine/Gearbox removal
• Disconnect battery
• Protect front wings/headlamps with old towels/curtains
• Remove bonnet
• Remove bonnet stay complete with horn
• Remove front number plate
• Remove starting handle
• Drain radiator
• Loosen top and bottom hoses at head & water branch
• Remove Radiator shell and radiator complete with top/bottom hoses
• Remove gear lever. Stuff gearbox top cover with paper towel.
• Remove floor mat & propshaft tunnel cover
• Remove bolts securing propshaft to output flange
• Remove clutch lever top (or complete lever from release shaft if you haven’t got a modified floor pan )
• Remove flywheel cover plate
• Disconnect speedo cable from gearbox
• Disconnect fuel pipe from fuel pump.
• Disconnect choke cable and throttle linkage
• Disconnect oil pipe to dashboard gauge from back of crankcase
• Disconnect starter cable from starter motor
• Disconnect starter pull cable from solenoid
• Disconnect secondary earth cable from cylinder head (if you’ve got one)
• Disconnect earth strap from timing case
• Disconnect dynamo cables from dynamo
• Remove adv/retard lever from distributor
• Remove HT lead from coil.
• Disconnect LT lead from distributor
• Remove four bolts holding exhaust downpipe to manifold
• Remove n°3 spark plug & replace with lifting hook
• Remove engine mounting bolts
• Lift unit clear with hoist tilting unit backwards to clear nose piece and throttle linkage
• Push car backwards out of the way and place unit on stand/workmate
• Set handbrake on car once it’s out of the way.
• Replace flywheel cover to prevent something falling in.
• Have a cup of tea for a job well done.

[Ivor Hawkins]

Good list there Bruce, but you forgot all the swearing when you have a Nippy sump like mine has!

In fact I have the same job to do on mine as the bearing is noisy and thinking I may have to remove the sump to get the b*gger out!

[Chris KC]

Good list there Bruce, but you forgot all the swearing when you have a Nippy sump like mine has!

In fact I have the same job to do on mine as the bearing is noisy and thinking I may have to remove the sump to get the b*gger out!

I use a Nippy sump and simply remove it before the engine is hoisted out. Likewise drop the engine back in then re-fit the sump in situ - you may find you have to lift the front end a little to get it in. I would only caution you to have a good look around afterwards and make sure you have made a good joint, as it's easy to mess it up & not notice.

[Howard Wright]

I have been driving my seven and the rattle from the clutch thrust race has been getting worse. It stops when i push it in. I already tried to oil it but to no avail. I was told that I need to replace it. Can I do this with the engine still in the car or do i have to fully disassemble. I do not have an engine hoist so this would be mostly by hand. Please tell me what to do.

Hi

I have removed the gearbox in my 1930 RK without taking the engine out. The layout of the RK would be almost identical to your Chummy.


 I remember it being a bit of a pain and I would certainly now take the engine out (leaving the gearbox in situ). I think I found previously that taking out the gearbox and engine together was more difficult than separating them! 

Cheers

Howard

[Reckless Rat]

Just to clarify, in order to facilitate the engine/gearbox removal I have modified both front and rear engine mounts, and the floor pan. The engine mounts (rear) are through bolts with 'D' shaped washers welded on at the head end. They are inserted from below and secured by a nyloc nut on top. This allow their removal from the top only as the 'D' prevents them from turning. This is easier with the starter motor removed (later crankcases).

The front engine mounts work the other way. The castellated nuts are wound right down to the bottom of their threads so that they can then be removed from the threaded portion in the chassis rail. Being unable to "lock" them in position means that I have to occasionally recheck them for tightness after re-fitting but it does make removal (and refitting)of the unit easier if they're taken out. My crankcase is a rubber mounted low frame one so in the RP it will only come out if I remove the flywheel cover. I don't have to remove the throttle shaft. It appears that a previous owner has introduced the area around the bell housing/bulkhead interface to the Manchester spanner...

The floor pan has been cut so that the unit can be removed without having to disconnect the clutch pedal from the bell housing. All I have to do is to unscrew the pedal end to allow it to pass through. OK it's not what the rivet counters would like but what the hell. It's a damned sight easier!

I am fortunate that I have an electric hoist so I can leave the ancillaries in place (dynamo, manifolds etc) . I take the starter motor off because it's easier to get at the r/o/s mounting.

[Ivor Hawkins]

Good list there Bruce, but you forgot all the swearing when you have a Nippy sump like mine has!

In fact I have the same job to do on mine as the bearing is noisy and thinking I may have to remove the sump to get the b*gger out!

I use a Nippy sump and simply remove it before the engine is hoisted out. Likewise drop the engine back in then re-fit the sump in situ - you may find you have to lift the front end a little to get it in. I would only caution you to have a good look around afterwards and make sure you have made a good joint, as it's easy to mess it up & not notice.

Thanks Chris, I shall be vigilant, but I think I’ll tackle the job in the new year...it might be warmer!

[Vancevr]

So after i get the engine out and the tranny apart what do I do. Sorry for being clueless. I'm very good with a wrench but I dont want to break anything I will regret. What else on the car should i fix or work on while the engine is out. I figured replacing the trans seals and gaskets but what else?

[Terrytuned]

The best way to repair a 3spd clutch bearing is to replace it with a 4spd bearing which does'nt rotate all the time the engine is running.(see attachment) ignore any reference to Renault this is a race conversion that uses the same setup.