Starting handles,good ferrules. 4 blade fan and al.dynamo housing.
BTH magneto was working fine but now has a gear wheel with several broken teeth otherwise excellent.
1930 ish scuttle petrol tank.
3speed gearbox for uncoupled braked car. Selection of cylinder heads 18mm
P.s. Oil pressure gauges for Vintage A7's and also Rubies. David Harcourt type.
I'm about to have the wheels on the Cabriolet refurbished and need to remove the 'hub caps' prior to the work being carried out. This is for the later style Ruby wheels. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions as to how this can be done easily before I start bashing away with a bloody great hammer? Advice on how to refit afterwards would be equally well received!!
I was pondering a 1st edition Nicholson book the other day and noticed that the drawing (taken from the "official" handbook I think) of the controls of the car shows the hand throttle and advance/retard lever at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock respectively. Downloading the handbooks from the excellent A7CA archive site seems to indicate that the orientation of the levers changed to 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock somewhere between handbooks 715a and 715b (May 1930, RK and Jan 1931, RL). Anyone have the definitive word on this one? Did it change with the steel body introduction as it doesn't seem to be linked to coil engines, long wheelbase or any of the other major changes. Or was the position variable, depending on the assembly operator in the factory?
I'm sure this was discussed on the old site but I've searched and can't find anything.
Does anyone know where I can get one, it is an alternative rear main bearing, if anyone has a new one I am happy to purchase, or swop for a new standard type rear main
Some of you may have seen my post about a REV counter and temperature measurement. Yesterday, we went out for a run with our local club, Renault Gourdinis, Porches, Fiats etc. The RN ran well, however on climbing a moderate incline for 10 minutes or so in 2nd gear did raise the temperature some what. Air temperature was 36 deg C and towards the top of the hill (about 400M climb) she started to miss and jump around. Fortunately, we made the top of the hill without holding anyone up and continued without problems. A long break for lunch, temperatures rising and another run, but after about 40 miles, another hill and some serious vapour lock problems. After wrapping some water soaked rags around the gravity fuel pipe, we continued for a few miles and we were then stuck !!. It was my wife who came up with the OBVIOUS solution. Why not remove the bonnet !! - Well that was so simple, it fitted behind the front seats perfectly and we continued on our way home much to the merriment to our French drivers.
The temperatures I was able to measure on reaching home:-
Ambient Air temp 39 deg C
Water 69 deg C (With the bonnet removed, I guess these had dropped to avoid vapour lock)
Manifold 74 deg C
Carburettor body 45 deg C
Fuel pipe 34 deg C
I think the culprit is the fuel pipe/ Bulkhead fuel tank temperature, because when cooled with a soaked rag, matters improve.
I am looking at 1). Placing insulation around the fuel tank
2). Replacing the copper fuel tube with some sort of insulated tube (Any ideas / suppliers for that ??)
3). Making some sort of heat insulator for the exhaust pipe (Flitch plates not fitted because they don't fit).
Any thoughts on the above appreciated. 1932 RN Saloon, 4 blade fan, new radiator (Modern core), ignition timing about right, Heatwave.
