If this estimate is correct then the market really has crashed...


   

https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/auction/lot...6&pn=9&g=1

Hi folks

I'm currently having some difficulties with our road traffic office. They want me to drive at a maximum of 30 km/h (that's 18 mph) (sic!) because the front and rear brakes are not coupled. This is as unbelievable as it is ridiculous. Imagine a shipload of expletives here...

As this requirement is hardly feasible in practice, because I don't want to be a rolling obstacle any more than necessary, I'm thinking about converting the brakes. Now my question is, is it difficult to upgrade the brakes to the coupled system? Or is it relatively easy? Is this perhaps even a common method and has been done by many of you?

If someone could explain to me how to proceed in this case, I would be very grateful.

Thank you.

Oliver

When did they start putting date stamps on tyres? I've been to check over a very nice Ruby which has been stored in a dry garage for 5 years and pumped up the flat tyres, non had a date stamp and one had cracks in the sidewall. the battery was flat and dry, the radiator had been drained and I couldn't turn the engine. The car is local to me and the lady owner lives in Plymouth.

Does anyone know if the South Wales A7 club will be holding their annual gathering in 2025 please and, if so, where and when? I’ve emailed the secretary but have not heard back yet.

Many thanks

Alan

Finally have engine/gearbox back in and am not sure if I am missing a part? There is a large hole on bottom of gearbox (4 speed/sync) forward of the drain plug and I am at a loss as to why there isnt a cover of some sort?



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Hi All

I’m getting a bit fed up with this van of mine!

On the ‘what have you done’ thread I mentioned that I pulled the centre stud whilst attempting to cure a leaking gasket.  Well the stud was already a stepped stud so I made one with a lot more thread.  


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Before I install a new gasket I thought I’d torque it up against a tube to test it.  It pulled again.

Closer inspection and I think the block is U/S.  Hairline cracks from the stud hole to the liners.


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So first question……I have a 1925 magneto engine that was running when I took it out of the car.  I assume there is no reason I can’t use the block from this engine in the coil engine?

Second question…..If this is not possible anyone got a spare good block they could sell me?

Cheers

Howard

Hi All

I’ve spent the last week or three making new doors for my AD based van.  The old ones were made of plywood sheets and I got very fed up with tightening the hinge screws that went end grain on to the ply!

Here are a few pics of the construction including the home made steam box and jig to get the doors at the correct curvature.


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The original doors were a very poor fit and although the new ones are better I’d like to improve things further.  

Can anyone let me know if the A post on a Chummy is flat or curved?  And what are my chances of replacing the A posts with the body in situ?

This is the driver side A post which varies in thickness between 7/8” at the top to well over an 1” at the lower hinge before reducing back to 7/8” at the bottom. Clearly not correct?


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Cheers Howard

Hi All,

Another question on my Ulster Rep. As it is has been much modified, I am trying to understand what has been done to the handbrake on the car. Obviously lots, as on other bits. Can anyone supply photos of the handbrake linkage on a 1930 chassis. An over head (plan view) and a side (near side view) in detail would be much appreciated. Currently, the, I assume, bearing carrier on the for and after chassis member contacts the handbrake assembly. There are spacers but it seems I need more to space the handbrake to the near side more.

Erich in Mukilteo

Assistance required. Does anyone have photographs of the original interior of a '29 / '31 Mulliner saloon, or can point me in a direction that may help please?
Perhaps I shouldn't mention this, but it's to aid a Mulliner bodied Morris Minor owner.
TIA.
Chris.

Hi All,

Electrical issues are a bit of a mystery for me. First off, my Ulster Rep came with a Morris Minor(postwar) cut out and a 12 volt system. I subsequently got a CF-1(its a 1930 SWB chassis). They CF-1 is missing its metal fuse strip. Are these available?

My second question involves the CF-1 capacity. As it is 6 volt cut out, do I have to convert back to a 6 volt system, or can it be used with a 12 volt system? If the former, I will need to have the dynamo converted to three brush presumably, as well as change the battery and the light bulbs. Will the coil need to be changed as well? Anything else?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Erich in Mukilteo