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inner steering column removal hourglass box
#1
Oct 1936 onwards "hourglass" steering column/box 1A6111
Can anyone tell me the best way to get the inner column with thrust ball bearings and worm out from the outer column and box.  I am wanting to clean out and check bearings and worm.  I have cover plate 1A5141 (or 6141??) and (end plate) clamping cover 1A6117 removed.  Third inner/controls tube not fitted or wanted on this set up.
As far as I can think it is only the interference fit of the bearing race in the box that is holding it in?  Block of wood on steering wheel end and gentle taping? 

There are 2 bearings; 1 at the column side of the worm - a ball thrust I think comprising :-balls for worm bearing 2K5286, bearing cage 1A6124, bearing cup1A6131 (2 of each of these shown in spares list):  and a ball bearing at the very end of the column under the end plate - R&M 19F 3T  B9720.  This bearing not shown in any spares list.


Archive drawing XL335 May 1937 shows a bearing either side of worm.


I now can't seem to attach any photos as I have been able to in past.

Dennis
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#2
   

The drawing Dennis refers to. This is a copy of the new images that I am in the process of uploading to replace the earlier, lower quality images made some years back. This is a slightly lower resolution version that will not be the final version that gets uploaded.

Hugh
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#3
trying photos again.  Computer must have had a good nights sleep....it is adding photos  BUT it has doubled up the close up of the column end......not my doing honest.  After the heading "side view end plate" the next 2 repeat photos of column end close up have appeared by them selves! Only 4 posted by me...first 2 and last 2.......intriguing?  The last 2 are not showing up in the Message box attachment list either but are clearly there.

end view of box showing bearing.

   

   

Side view end plate 1A6117

   

   


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       
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#4
The races are a simple light press fit, there should be shims for endfloat adjustment, unless water has got in I find these bearings are usually in serviceable condition.
Black Art Enthusiast
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#5
Thanks Hugh.  My knowledge of manipulating photos in photo editor apps is very low trial and error.  Have tried to cut just the box from that drawing and magnify to fit A4 and print but print out is rather pixelated and blurred so guess will have to wait for the improved version unless you have time to quickly be able to send me a higher resolution of just the box.

I have found a column and box that I must have stripped in the 1970s.....can't remember any details of what or how I did it.
The worm and bearings are stripped off the splines of the inner column.

I think penny has dropped and believe the hitherto mysterious oil seal 1F6106 and its retainer 2K5046 (just a washer?) can be seen in the last photo with 2K5046 held in place by the 4 punched indents and under it the felt seal.
On my box, which does not have the inner controls column. I clamped a short round bar into the hole for the felt to seal around.

Wonder if anyone will ever make a new set of worm (1A6123?)  and worm sector 1A6125 for these 1A6111 boxes.


Dennis

Can a moderator/webmaster remove the 2 duplicate photos (3 and 4) just after the caption "side view end plate 1A6117"
to save any future confusion?  I daren't try in view of strange way posting is behaving at my end.

Dennis

PS similar problems not ever noticed on another forum I often post on.

(21-08-2021, 12:54 AM)Ian Williams Wrote: The races are a simple light press fit, there should be shims for endfloat adjustment, unless water has got in I find these bearings are usually in serviceable condition.

Thanks Ian.  Will play with dismantled column, I have found, to get better understanding and feel for the engineering aspects.  Suspect I will just wash out my box and leave well alone if cleaned bearings feel ok.

Dennis
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#6
Further findings/questions.
The dismantled hourglass column and box has thrown up another couple of queries.

The "steering box cover" has the number 1A6141 which does not seem to appear in any of the spares lists.  It has the 2 bushes (like C1 - 278) and a thrust washer on the worm sector 1A6125.  
And the"clamping cover" also has a different number 1A6118 (6118 suggests a later dating from the usual 1A6117).

The worm (1A6122 or 6123) is internally splined and slides onto the bottom of the splined inner column1A6115.  The splines stop 1/4 inch from one end but 1/2 inch from the other end.  I am assuming from an engineering point of view that the end with the nearest spines would be at the bottom end of the column?

The balls run in the worm itself with the 1A6131 "bearing cup" forming the outer race and the 1A6124 "bearing cage there just to keep the 17 balls in place.  The balls can be put in place pushing against the slight springiness of the cage.
The 2 bearing outer races of this box are too badly marked to be useable.  They are an interference fit in the box.

Interesting to note that the Big7 uses same worm 1A6122 (Dec 1937, Oct 1938); and same clamping cover (end plate) 1A6117 as well as worm sector 1A6125.

The Jan 1946 parts list publication 185, shows "steering worm wheel" 1A6023 still available.
It also shows different inner column and worm 1A6115/6123 (instead of 6122) so what difference was 6123?

   

   

   
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#7
Yes your comments about the big seven box are correct and taking advantage of these similarities is how I lengthen Ruby type column. You simply take the inner column shaft which is around 5" longer then a ruby fit your good Ruby worm to it. Sweat the Big seven outer column out from the big seven box and soft solder it into your Ruby box, its then a just a case of assembly and set up as you would any hourglass box. Very useful in a LWB special where you want to get the proportions of the car right.
Black Art Enthusiast
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#8
Thanks Ian.
For my benefit and others, what is the process to go through to set up the correct end float with the shims on the end plate?
I have a DTI if needed.  My mind just can't fathom out how to go about it with the outers being an interference fit in the box.  I also have a hydraulic press that can be used for pressing out inner column and hence bearings (I don't like idea of block of wood and hammer on steering wheel end having remembered someone's comment some time in the past about removing other bearings about doing similar hammering practice may cause balls to make indents in the races.

Dennis
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#9
Just playing some more have noticed the 2 ball outer races have same B9720 engraved as has the end one on the box I am hoping to use (first lot of photos) but further engravings are different;- 19D3T,  19A3T and in photo 19F3T.....all are R&M.
Anyone explain what these indicate?

They are obviously angular contact so good for radial and axis loading.
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#10
END PLAY for ball thrust races either side of worm.
What would be/should be the end play for the inner column bearings??  (Adjusted with shims under clamping cover 1A6117)

I propose to assemble with no shims doing up 2 setscrews 2K5289 alternately a bit at a time till clamping cover has pushed bearing cup 1A6131 in to just touch the balls and measure gap between clamping cover and box then add shims to take up distance + end float clearance....but WHAT CLEARANCE?


I removed the inner column/worm/bearing cup with my hydraulic press.....overkill as realised threaded rod + nut and washer at steering wheel end and tube/washer/nut at box end would have done just as easily  Rolleyes
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