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When I first had my RP saloon, I found that someone had so butchered the nearside front grease plug that it would not come out at all. I got the hub off by extracting the split pin using a pair of small fine nosed pliers to straighten the legs out and then used a suitable small nail with the point filed off as a punch to persuade the pin to come up tapping through the hole arranged at the bottom until enough of the head of the pin was poking through the top hole for me to grab it with a pair of side cutters. I used a box spanner to get the nut off, as all my sockets which would fit had too thick a wall to get in.

It was a dreadful fiddle, though and I much prefer separating the two halves of the hub on the car a la Zeto's suggestion.
Hey David , Much the same fiddling. Im working in a lock-up garage,so anything I forget to take with me has to wait. Its is a pain in the arse working this way.
I have a socket that fits the front hub retaining nut. I just shear the split pin, which is very soft, and remove the hub as a unit.
I refit the wheel nuts as the countersunk screws might not be strong enough.
This also saves having to remember to remove the grease plug.
The hub goes back on as a unit. Leaving the hub puller on means that a hammer can be used to refit and then tighten with the nut.
Using a shortened split pin, it isn't difficult to push it through and splay out the end gradually as it protrudes.
(24-02-2021, 10:56 PM)Zetomagneto Wrote: Nick, you do know you can pull the outer part off after removing the brake drum, 3 screws, and the grease blanking hole screw. Your post seems to suggest otherwise?
Yes. Sorry if I was a little less than clear Rpm, Zeto and anyone else... I was merely responding to the first question. It is possible. It may not be the best or text book way.
I have never used split pins in the front hubs replace the split pin with a roll pin 1/8" was the original size check size as some have been drilled. Remove drum then refit drum screws or fit 3/8 BSF nuts to studs, drive out roll pin with a small punch and remove hub nut (a 14mm sparkplug socket is a nice fit) and screw on your hub puller removes hub in one piece.

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I have always used exactly the same approach as Jim (AustinWood)... It sounds a little crude but works fine. And I was taught it by the great Master, Ray Walker, so it must be ok...
Had another go today and all went well, knowing what to expect made things easier. The thing I'm not sure about is how tight should the castle nut be? If I tighten hard up I can't put the pin through and backing it off leaves it not tight enough. Also what a duff design that split pin affair to hold the shoes back with the curly spring.
Thank You so much to you all.
Put hydraulic brake conversion back plate in the search box and see page 2&3 for a better brake hold down system. Terry.
Interesting Terry will take a look.

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