Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 389 Threads: 33
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Location: Garden of England
Car type: ARQ Ruby July 1936
When I first investigated paint for my Ruby I had decided on the dark blue of the Austin range.
Not knowing what the original colour was and finding every colour of the rainbow in stripping the shell back to bare metal.
However what I was advised at that time from various paint manufacturers was that both blues and reds, including maroon, should have a finish coat of clear lacquer to help prevent colour fade.
I eventually changed my choice to Dove Grey as a result of this advice, does this still apply to modern paints?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 952 Threads: 38
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I’m surprised no one has suggested going to one of the car paint suppliers of which there are many, and some whom have a paint spectrometer. Car body shops have colour swatches, getting a very close, if not perfect match shouldn’t be difficult .
Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 48 Threads: 6
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Varnish/Lacquer isn't such an issue really and can be a tricky subject on cars
Early paints were not naturally glossy and needed Varnish, things improved over time. Modern versions of older paint types have a greater staying power.
There are two factors when considering Varnishing a car:
1) Why are you doing it? If its to protect from fading I would say do not bother. Most of these cars are rather pampered and live indoors or undercover. They do not get the worst of all weathers and are usually protected. They don't see the full effects of the sun / rain / ice etc so I can't see it as likely that you'll have any issues. Later on in its life Varnish can be great for bringing dull paint back to life but...
2) Speed and Maintenance. Varnish is not as hard wearing it will be worse for stone chips than the enamel underneath. If it does chip it needs touching in speedily lest the weather get under it and it begins lifting in sheets. Varnish also needs periodic recoating. On a boat thats every 2-3 years and when it looks like it needs it - its too late it all has to come off. I generally recommend varnishing veteran cars to protect the lining and as they tend to be a bit more sedate, Vintage and onwards I wouldn't.
The above comments apply to my area of expertise (single pack synthetics and associated products) modern 2ks will be a different animal though I still wouldn't bother with a clear coat.
As for the point about local paint factors, it was mentioned on the other thread, they'll find you something 'close'. It depends how fussy you are and how close close is!
