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What have you done today with your Austin Seven
The CT is the last stage, Renaud. First an "attestation" is required from the FFVE (Federation Francaise de Vehicules de l'Époque), then a Controle Technique, and then the Carte Grise (Registration Document). Once the CG is issued he can change over to French plates. It's a lengthy process but not too difficult.
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While some motorways are to be avoided at all costs especially the dumb (smart) ones there are some which are very useful. Like the M6 past Penrith, I used to enjoy the almost deserted A6 however, getting onto the the roundabout where it crosses the A66 in Penrith was virtually impossible due to a near continuous stream of HGVs so I use M6.
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My Swiss pal Marcel sprayed the wings on my RP in 2009, in black 2 pack. Now, I am not a fan of over restored "garage queen" cars and you all know that mine gets a fair bit of use. However, due to lockdown and the fact that high voltage cables are being replaced in our village, our lane is closed to traffic every weekday from 8am to 6pm for the next 3 weeks, which means we are virtually confined to the house. Apart from gardening I potter in the garage, and decided to give the RP a dust and a quick polish. 

I might have over done it.. 

   

For some reason the pic has rotated 90°.
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(24-04-2021, 08:06 AM)Reckless Rat Wrote: The CT is the last stage, Renaud. First an "attestation" is required from the FFVE (Federation Francaise de Vehicules de l'Époque), then a Controle Technique, and then the Carte Grise (Registration Document). Once the CG is issued he can change over to French plates. It's a lengthy process but not too difficult.

Hi Bruce, yes I very well know the all b...y process for having proceeded many times. What was new for me was a CT in british plates but it's logical. I believe you can even do it without any plates at all. Indeed that's where FFVE is useful!
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Thought that I'd better fix the "as received" rigid fuel pipe and make one with anti-vibration coils. As this was the first I've ever had to make, it took a while but appears to have turned out OK.


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(24-04-2021, 01:11 PM)Reckless Rat Wrote: My Swiss pal Marcel sprayed the wings on my RP in 2009, in black 2 pack. Now, I am not a fan of over restored "garage queen" cars and you all know that mine gets a fair bit of use. However, due to lockdown and the fact that high voltage cables are being replaced in our village, our lane is closed to traffic every weekday from 8am to 6pm for the next 3 weeks, which means we are virtually confined to the house. Apart from gardening I potter in the garage, and decided to give the RP a dust and a quick polish. 

I might have over done it.

I’ve just sprayed mine in black two pack and this is a “before” shot, I’ve had to knock the finish right back to avoid the “garage or trailer queen” look!
   
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Shiny cars... mmm... mine is more akin to trailer trash than trailer queen. I had some paint mixed for repairs to the bodywork and had a matting agent added to get an eggshell finish... it hides the wrinkles on her 85 year old body.

I haven't done anything to my seven since being stumped by the lack of a 9/32 reamer. No drive it day fun for me tomorrow.
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I have noticed over the past few weeks that the RP's steering has been getting heavier. As the car was due for a service anyway, I decided to see if I could find out what was going on as part of the maintenance. I couldn't find anything that was clearly the culprit, but decided to pull the kingpins out , clean all the accumulated old grease out and refit. The grease in the bottom of the off side kingpin had gone hard and it would appear that the off side bottom bush was not getting its fair share of lubricant but I seem to have caught it before it did any damage. The old grease required quite a bit of working with some kerosene and a piece of stiff wire before it was clear. Result: steering noticeably lighter. The little car is now in full working order and ready to go out tomorrow. I don't know where I shall go, but, no doubt I shall think of something.
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Hi David S
The older greses like Castrol CL seemd to dry, probably intentionlly to form crusts, but most modern greases remain soft. Incidentally CL is good for preserving parts because it dries off to some extent. Best use for old tins of. I dont know what the standard recommnedayion is now but the kpins would seem to be good candidates for MS grease
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Just a little bit of maintenance, the front (Nearside for me RHS) wheel had some excessive wobble. I looked like the lower king pin bush was worn, but on investigation, its the axle eye with a bit of slop in it. Tightenig the KP cotter took the slop out of it, but I don't know for how long!
After a good grease all round, decided to see if the brakes would improve with a "tune up". With the car all up on axle stands, started with the LH rear, then RH and back to the front. Got it about the way I wanted (adjusting the "Tri Corn cable adjusters) although there was too much slack in the brake pedal. After a few gentle brakings, I did an "emergency stop". BANG, brakes sort of still worked but pulled to the left. Got out, released a bit off the LH rear cable, still pulled, backed off a bit more until it started to get silly.
Back home jack up onto stand all round, adjusted LH back to about OK, but no adjuster for the RH side !! Set off on the push bike and found the brake adjuster in the middle of the road !! A bit bent but straightenable.
I couldn't take the slack out of the brake pedal as for some reason, there isn't space between the chassis and the ears of the Austin wing nut adjuster. Don't know why no space, but made a half cup washer and after removing the complete rod, replaced the wing nut with a couple of 5/16 BSF nuts. Not that it could be necessary, but put a split pin in the end of the brake rod (Austin original) in case the nuts slackened off completely.
Now the brake light is playing up !!! Job for another day

Yesterday's job was to cure a slow drip from the 22FZ B carburetter, (I had recently replaced the corks on the petrol tap and cleaned the carb filter and jets etc). After reading the Zenith handbook, which says Do Not attempt to cure a "ridged" float valve needle, and the Pitmans book that says "Polish" out a ridged needle, Set the needle up in the lathe and took the ridge off using a very fine stone, followed by Brasso polish.
 Ah, success at last - Happy boy, little did I know what I would find the next day!
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