20-07-2023, 12:36 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-08-2023, 07:53 PM by Tony Griffiths.)
A few random points on flashing indicators: waiting to turn right off a main road in rain or dismal conditions, I love the fact that drivers behind can tell what I intend to do. An arm sticking out of the window does not pass muster these days - even if painted white and reflective (and getting the white and reflective paint off with paint stripper is not recommended).
It is indeed possible to hide indicators in reflectors and side lights - and Ruairidh Dunford does an excellent set, one that we have fitted to our Ruby. This is an almost completely invisible installation - only the sidelights give the game away if you know what to look for. On my other cars I use the common miniature "Ribberlights" set supplied by various sellers; these, of course, can be taken off of with no evidence they were ever fitted. One car refused to work with LEDs - despite trying every known trick in the book - so, for maximum brightness, I use 21W standard bulbs powered by a 12-volt motorcycle. The other car, goodness knows why, has no problems and runs 6-volt LEDs perfectly and these - if my 58-year-old Western Master V is a guide - are equal as bright as the 12-volt job. A clever part-solution, used by a well-known expert who drives his Box saloons almost daily, is a lighting board strapped across the spare wheel. This uses a trailer plug to connect to the car's electrical system and the whole thing can be detached in a few seconds. I suppose that a similar if more compact unit could be constructed for the front - and then you could drive your preserved car to an event, whip the units off, and be back to original.
It is indeed possible to hide indicators in reflectors and side lights - and Ruairidh Dunford does an excellent set, one that we have fitted to our Ruby. This is an almost completely invisible installation - only the sidelights give the game away if you know what to look for. On my other cars I use the common miniature "Ribberlights" set supplied by various sellers; these, of course, can be taken off of with no evidence they were ever fitted. One car refused to work with LEDs - despite trying every known trick in the book - so, for maximum brightness, I use 21W standard bulbs powered by a 12-volt motorcycle. The other car, goodness knows why, has no problems and runs 6-volt LEDs perfectly and these - if my 58-year-old Western Master V is a guide - are equal as bright as the 12-volt job. A clever part-solution, used by a well-known expert who drives his Box saloons almost daily, is a lighting board strapped across the spare wheel. This uses a trailer plug to connect to the car's electrical system and the whole thing can be detached in a few seconds. I suppose that a similar if more compact unit could be constructed for the front - and then you could drive your preserved car to an event, whip the units off, and be back to original.