Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,221 Threads: 101
Reputation:
26
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Just finished rebuilding a 3/4 synchro box I picked up at Beaulieu for £10. It had obviously been "re-purposed" as it had a pulley pressed on to the input shaft and a fair bit of sawdust inside! I guess a lot of crash and 3/4 boxes were replaced when 2 Syn became available, hence they are often in great condition. Some time around 1933-4 the selectors changed from cast steel(?) to bronze, not sure specifically why, but I robbed these from a later box.
IMG_1851s.jpg (Size: 423.58 KB / Downloads: 517)
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,804 Threads: 533
Reputation:
20
Location: Peak District, Derbyshire
Car type: 1929 Chummy, 1930 Chummy, 1930 Ulster Replica, 1934 Ruby
(08-09-2021, 12:57 PM)Chris KC Wrote: Just finished rebuilding a 3/4 synchro box I picked up at Beaulieu for £10. It had obviously been "re-purposed" as it had a pulley pressed on to the input shaft and a fair bit of sawdust inside! I guess a lot of crash and 3/4 boxes were replaced when 2 Syn became available, hence they are often in great condition. Some time around 1933-4 the selectors changed from cast steel(?) to bronze, not sure specifically why, but I robbed these from a later box.
Unless it had been used to drive a woodworking machine with the top left off, the sawdust might have been that old trick of making it run rather more quietly....
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,221 Threads: 101
Reputation:
26
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Did cross my mind Tony! But no - I guess it must have been used to run a wood turning lathe.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 124 Threads: 15
Reputation:
0
Location: East Sussex
Over the last week, we have been exploring Moreton-in-Marsh, the location of next year's Centenary event with our Box. We stayed at the Caravan & Motorhome Club site nearby and the car attracted a lot of attention. There were even 2 others staying at the site who owned A7's but did not have them with them. One was a Ruby Mk 2 in the Bournemouth area with 620 miles from new!
We sought permission before posing outside the Fire Services Training College.
Moreton Box.jpg (Size: 88.73 KB / Downloads: 295)
Not long now!
Alan
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,257 Threads: 33
Reputation:
35
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Having just completed a run round the area of about 22 miles or thereabouts once the car had cooled down I thought I'd have a look and see if everything was OK under the bonnet, at first glance it seemed so, so I took a photo of my recently (2019) rebuilt engine and its oil-tightness.
![[Image: 20210909-133040-1.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/tJcZn43X/20210909-133040-1.jpg)
It wasn't until I uploaded the photo(s) onto the computer that I could see something untoward... the split pin retaining the throttle linkage was about to go on its holidays:
![[Image: 20210909-133126-1.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/4NKhkpGn/20210909-133126-1.jpg)
Thankfully I spotted it in time and things have now been rectified.
One thing I have noticed recently is that since I removed the control linkages, things are much quieter in the cabin. I never really used the hand throttle and the dizzy (Bosch) is locked off. It's amazing the amount of vibration that is transmitted by the rods to the steering tubes and hence into the car. I had left them in place, just for show, but things are better without.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
Reputation:
6
Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
Thatis interesting about your thoughts on the linkages.
I've acquired some DS4 distributors so I can fit one to replace the Bosch on my chummy. I had a DJ with the manual set up on the Chummy I sold and liked the flexibility a lot. I also liked being able to use the hand throttle as a crude cruise control, holding it with my thumb.
One thing I've done today is order one of Davids 'Spicer' propshafts for the new one. Its either that or overhaul a Carden block and fit a new fabric coupling.
Also bought a ton of coal, and 3 steam valves for the roller.
So bank balance much lighter today.
Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 367 Threads: 14
Reputation:
0
Location: Western Brittany (France)
Beautiful engine bay Bruce!
And Hedd is there a place on the net about your steam roller?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
Reputation:
6
Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
(09-09-2021, 04:18 PM)Renaud Wrote: Beautiful engine bay Bruce!
And Hedd is there a place on the net about your steam roller?
If you can find me on facebook, lots
Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 512 Threads: 90
Reputation:
1
Having finished the engine and gearbox on my Ruby, I thought that I would strip the front axle today.
Everything came apart nicely and seems to be good condition, needing just cleaning and the usual wear and tear items refurbishing.
Everything, that is, apart from the radius arms. One has snapped where the end piece is riveted onto the arm and both are bent like bananas, in opposite directions. The tension spring for the ball joint cups seems to have gone on holiday and the rivets holding the ball to the chassis are only passing acquaintances, judging by amount that it moves up and down.
Hey, ho. All good fun.
Regards,
Jamie.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,257 Threads: 33
Reputation:
35
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
You can remove the ball joint to chassis crossmember rivets with a grinder and replace them with some HT steel bolts. Just remember to put the heads to the front otherwise you'll never get the radius arms back on... (don't ask me why I know that)
Good luck with the radius arms - are they semi Girling?
|
