Hello all - a bit of help regarding the compatability of half shafts would be much appreciated. 

I'm digging through the various parts I have here - I'm looking at using a standard 33-39 'D' rear axle housing but all the half shafts I have measure about 22 1/16" in total (including the ones that came with the D housing) - are these too short or are they, in reality, what is called  22 1/2" in my Douglas Woodrow manual?

Many thanks for any help offered!

I am trying to start a Ruby after some engine work; the starter is turning over easy and there is spark and fuel at least to the carb but no ignition.
I set the tappets on the bench buit wonder if something is wrong and the fuel is not being sucked through.
What is the best way to set the tappets, do I need to start at TDC or can I dive in anywhere as long as I stick to the rule of 9?
Not sure what else it could be but open to suggestions.

I've built up a replacement rear axle for the Ulster but - having almost finished - spotted a potential issue.

At present the rear brake cables run over the top of the rear crossmember through a bushing, then descend to the brake levers - semi-girling - which are at the 6 o'clock position on the backplate.

The new axle has 1" Austin brakes, and the levers are at the 10 o'clock position, thus somewhat higher up.
I anticipate a possible foul between the cables and front lower corners of wheel arches, which sit very close to the springs.

Obviously not insoluble, but I'd be interested to hear how others have dealt with this? (I can't be alone...) 
Is this a 'known issue' with a 'standard' fix?

   
Can somebody identify this Lucas cut-out and fuse box. It's fitted to an RP but I don't believe it's original. Not like a CF or CFR2?

Thanks

Can anyone help with pictures of the construction of the window frame and a pattern  for the wooden piece above the front window or any literature on body repairs for a box saloon

Hi,

I've just fitted a new condenser to my DK4A distributor but didn't have the original fixing screw.

I found a cheese head screw with the correct thread and used that although I suspect it may be longer than the original.

Turned by hand the distributor is completely free but I'm now having a slight panic as I wondered if the situation could be different when the engine is running and the bob weights move.

So, does anyone know the correct length and how critical this is?

John.

Not sure what condition the car is in now - the vendor says the engine is out and the pictures are from three years ago - but this looks a decent Ruby for someone.  (I don't know the seller, so usual disclaimers.)


  Ruby OFF 117.jpg (Size: 195.69 KB / Downloads: 201)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266888912048

It is listed in Parts, rather than Cars for Sale.

I've seen this in a friends garage, just curious how old it would be ... any ideas 

   

cheers
Matt

Here are the 'official' photos from a terrific weekend at Beaulieu for the National Austin Seven Rally.

The 2025 rally will take place on Sunday 29th June.

The Rally Field - https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBxJSF

Winners - https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBxKg9

Driving Tests - https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBxLFX

People & Friends - https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBxNpx

Swallows - https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBxGoq

Monaco Run 50th Anniversary - https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBxPb1

Is it correct that the DJ4 distributor was introduced in 1930 to replace the DS4? Also, might anyone have a set (or even one or two) of the "mushroom" type HT lead-retaining fastening as shown below that they would be willing to sell?

Attached Files

  DJ4 1930.jpg (Size: 44.24 KB / Downloads: 123)