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Chummy Hood Fitting to Body Tub
#1
Hello all, 

I'm trying to fit a hood to my chummy project and have some questions about how it should be connected to the car at the rear. I understand that the hood I have was fitted to a special at some point and has been lowered and will need both the main support arms and the fabric at the rear extended. 

My key question is that I think I've seen two methods of attaching the hood to the rear of the body tub, one being 'lift the dot' fasteners along the back rear of the tub, and the other being somehow attached to the top edge of the tub top with the aluminium trim on top. 

Is one of these methods factory correct or were they both used for various times/models? In some ways I would prefer the lift the dot appoach for easy hood removal, but this would require drilling through the bodywork as there's no apparent holes where these fasteners would have been (unless they've been subsequently filled in and painted over). 

It is a lateish chummy and seems to have provision for what I think is the later type of hood rest brackets with four bolts, and not like these ones that seem readily available from the usual suppliers: https://www.theaustinsevenworkshop.com/p...ckets-9173 

Is anyone able to point me towards a source for the later type of hood rest bracket?

Any help/thoughts much appreciated!
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#2
My mid 1928 mag engined Chummy has the hood anchored under the bead on the edge oif the body tub, and I believe this to be a copy of the original system. I cannot say whether this changed during the production period.
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#3
Does this help...

   
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#4
I don't believe Lift-the-Dots were ever used by the factory; all the original cars I have seen have had the hood material held under the aluminium trim strip.
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#5
Thanks all that's helpful.

There's no aluminim trim strip on the car at present - I assume it's just pinned/screwed into place at the same time as the hood? I'd think that the rear of the hood is under a fair bit of tension when it's up so presumably needs to be quite firmly attached. It seems a bit crude that there would be pins/screws going straight through the fabric, surely this would lead to tearing unless it's primarily the trim strip keeping it in place rather than the pins?
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#6
(26-03-2024, 05:13 PM)RupertW Wrote: Thanks all that's helpful.

There's no aluminim trim strip on the car at present - I assume it's just pinned/screwed into place at the same time as the hood? I'd think that the rear of the hood is under a fair bit of tension when it's up so presumably needs to be quite firmly attached. It seems a bit crude that there would be pins/screws going straight through the fabric, surely this would lead to tearing unless it's primarily the trim strip keeping it in place rather than the pins?

The aluminium strip clamps the hood material down. If the wood is in good condition, ordinary domed-head and slotted wood screws (usually nickel or chrome plated) are used - these are ideal https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1630-wood-screws. Inevitably, some packing out of the screw holes is necessary. If you don't have the aluminium strip, it's the same section as used on top of the doors and rear sides of the tub. For the rear, it's bent in one section and you'll have fun getting those corner curves correct with much annealing and careful bending necessary. The ali strip - it's called 'cope moulding - can be bought here: https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1039-cope-moulding  It's not quite as original as the top is domed whereas the original was flat - a 'problem' either to be ignored or corrected with a file.
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#7
If the car has been used for competition work in the past, the fixing of the hood with "pop" fasteners, lift the dots or something like that is often found as it enable the hood to be removed before an event in minutes, without damaging anything.
I'm going to fix the hood like this on the new trials Chummy project.
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