The following warnings occurred:
Warning [2] Undefined variable $search_thread - Line: 60 - File: showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code PHP 8.1.28 (Linux)
File Line Function
/inc/class_error.php 153 errorHandler->error
/showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code 60 errorHandler->error_callback
/showthread.php 1617 eval




Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Steering and ROSE joints
#1
First a quick plea.  When posting would everyone please use the terminology as used by Austin as found in their spare parts list.  The lists are freely available to read and download in the Austin Seven Clubs Association archive section.  This would make technical discussions so much easier to follow.  (drag link?????? what is that????.....is it the steering side tube 1A4147 or the steering cross tube 1A4018?????  and so on.   Confused

I am just about getting to the overhaul of my Nippy special, steering.
I have a dislike for the Steering side tube and its ball pins and associated springs and thrust blocks.  I believe some people have used ROSE joints in lieu of the ball pins.  To save re-inventing the wheel can someone tell me what size/material tube and rose joints that have been used (I/D and O/D of tube).  How were Rose joints fitted to tube (Male thread into tube with female thread;   insert, with female thread, welded into tube and rose screwed in?
Really full details/dimensions and how-to-do would be appreciated.

Some car details that may be relevant.
BMC A+ engine so somewhat heavier at front.  (this replaces BMC A 948 previously used)

Big 7 front axle with 1A4604 side tube leaver (some call steering arm....the arm in the stub axle that the steering side tube connects to). Apparently bigger radius means they do not crack on inside bend.


Spring shackles standard new big 7 (threaded pins rotate in threaded bush).

Morris minor cross tube leavers instead of big 7 1A4644/1A4645.  The Morris leavers were tapered and keyed into their Morris housing but have had taper turned down to parallel with keyway as per big 7.  They were also bent down slightly so that the steering cross tube was strait and clears under the chassis.  The Morris leavers take easy to get and easily replaceable ball joints.  The ball joints are standard Morris,  female end screwed onto the strait steering cross tube which i threaded with a die. I don't think I had the big 7 cross tube 1A4646 and ball ends 1A4643 at the time I did the conversion, but Morris ones are better.

The current steering side tube is a pre big 7 one cut and lengthened by a sleeve welded over.

Big 7 radius arms fixed to chassis with silent block bush (housing 1A4626 and bush 2H1051)....Does anyone know the original dimensions of the silent block bush......it would seem to be the same size as the A7 rear axle torque tube socket to chassis mounting.....but that is 2H2181 in big 7 and 2H1051 in 1937 low chassis A7........I do not know if either of the bushes on mine are the correct ones.  (who does spare 2H1051 bush? as that is what I will use if I can get a new one.
I have noted that on one radius arm end the inside surface is convex and the inner sleeve of the bush concave....I am assuming this is wear and both should be flat....note to self - must ensure bolt tightened up so no relative movement between arm and bush inner sleeve.  Perhaps there is a modern poly bush with stainless inner sleeve that purposely rotates in bush....as per those made by Super Flex for some wishbones?

Steering box is the late A7 1A6111 with worm sector 1A6125 (only 1/3 the number of teeth) and steering arm 1A6127.
Does anyone know of a source of the thrust ball bearing.......cup 1A6131 and cage 1A6124; balls (34 of) 2K5286 or a suitable replacement.  Last time I tried to find many years ago nothing was available.
Had trouble locking up on corners...embarrassing nearly going up on pavement at roundabout  Blush  Cured by use of Molyslip added to lubricant in box.

I do not have machining capabilities (or the skills) so most work would have to be outsourced.  My medium sized lathe is a bit worn and only used for non critical work.

Thanks
Dennis
Reply
#2
(22-02-2018, 01:47 AM)Dennis Nicholas Wrote: (who does spare 2H1051 bush? as that is what I will use if I can get a new one.

I bought some from Robin Taylor, of the Big Seven Register, recently Dennis.
Reply
#3
When I did the Rose joined suspension for my racing car in the '70s I had inserts made to fit the tubes I used, and brazed them in using chassis braze.
Used left and right handed Rose joints thus giving me full adjustment.

Geoff - New boiler being installion started an hour ago, at last!
Reply
#4
Ruairidh.....Thanks...would have probably thought of Robin in the end (age decreasing brain activity!)

Geoff ....thanks - adjustment....another point to consider put on list. Any memory of what size tubing and Rose joints?

Boiler....is your special a steamer or has it now got central heating?? My Nippy will have 2 speed fan heater and there is still room for feet both sides.....just.

Dennis
Reply
#5
Presume when you say Rose Joints , you mean Rod Ends -Rose Joints are something slightly different.

I have done a couple of A7s with Rod ends on the steering I used 3/8" male rod ends threaded into home turned Bushes which were Nickel Bronze welded into the tube -I also put a peened over steel pin across the tube and bush at the very rear of the thread. the tube I used was 3/4" 16 SWG CDS.

"Off the peg" threaded bushes for rod ends are available from these people. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/McGill-Motorspo...7675.l2563

You might need a "high misalignment " style rod end at the steering arm end of the drag link/side tube-ordinary rod ends don't allow for a lot of "up and down" movement. something like this: https://www.autosport-bearings.co.uk/pro...ht-hand-2/
Reply
#6
Thread from 2011 - John Miles comes in on June 9th 2012

http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...4&cmd=show
Reply
#7
(22-02-2018, 01:47 AM)Dennis Nicholas Wrote: First a quick plea.  When posting would everyone please use the terminology as used by Austin as found in their spare parts list.  The lists are freely available to read and download in the Austin Seven Clubs Association archive section.  This would make technical discussions so much easier to follow.  (drag link?????? what is that????.....is it the steering side tube 1A4147 or the steering cross tube 1A4018?????  and so on.   Confused

I am just about getting to the overhaul of my Nippy special, steering.
I have a dislike for the Steering side tube and its ball pins and associated springs and thrust blocks.  I believe some people have used ROSE joints in lieu of the ball pins.  To save re-inventing the wheel can someone tell me what size/material tube and rose joints that have been used (I/D and O/D of tube).  How were Rose joints fitted to tube (Male thread into tube with female thread;   insert, with female thread, welded into tube and rose screwed in?
Really full details/dimensions and how-to-do would be appreciated.

Some car details that may be relevant.
BMC A+ engine so somewhat heavier at front.  (this replaces BMC A 948 previously used)

Big 7 front axle with 1A4604 side tube leaver (some call steering arm....the arm in the stub axle that the steering side tube connects to). Apparently bigger radius means they do not crack on inside bend.


Spring shackles standard new big 7 (threaded pins rotate in threaded bush).

Morris minor cross tube leavers instead of big 7 1A4644/1A4645.  The Morris leavers were tapered and keyed into their Morris housing but have had taper turned down to parallel with keyway as per big 7.  They were also bent down slightly so that the steering cross tube was strait and clears under the chassis.  The Morris leavers take easy to get and easily replaceable ball joints.  The ball joints are standard Morris,  female end screwed onto the strait steering cross tube which i threaded with a die. I don't think I had the big 7 cross tube 1A4646 and ball ends 1A4643 at the time I did the conversion, but Morris ones are better.

The current steering side tube is a pre big 7 one cut and lengthened by a sleeve welded over.

Big 7 radius arms fixed to chassis with silent block bush (housing 1A4626 and bush 2H1051)....Does anyone know the original dimensions of the silent block bush......it would seem to be the same size as the A7 rear axle torque tube socket to chassis mounting.....but that is 2H2181 in big 7 and 2H1051 in 1937 low chassis A7........I do not know if either of the bushes on mine are the correct ones.  (who does spare 2H1051 bush? as that is what I will use if I can get a new one.
I have noted that on one radius arm end the inside surface is convex and the inner sleeve of the bush concave....I am assuming this is wear and both should be flat....note to self - must ensure bolt tightened up so no relative movement between arm and bush inner sleeve.  Perhaps there is a modern poly bush with stainless inner sleeve that purposely rotates in bush....as per those made by Super Flex for some wishbones?

Steering box is the late A7 1A6111 with worm sector 1A6125 (only 1/3 the number of teeth) and steering arm 1A6127.
Does anyone know of a source of the thrust ball bearing.......cup 1A6131 and cage 1A6124; balls (34 of) 2K5286 or a suitable replacement.  Last time I tried to find many years ago nothing was available.
Had trouble locking up on corners...embarrassing nearly going up on pavement at roundabout  Blush  Cured by use of Molyslip added to lubricant in box.

I do not have machining capabilities (or the skills) so most work would have to be outsourced.  My medium sized lathe is a bit worn and only used for non critical work.

Thanks
Dennis
All my steering rods are 3/4" OD and 5/8" ID from RW tubing. Rod Ends are 3/8" with L & RH UNF threads and lock nuts. They go into stepped threaded inserts that are pressed then TIG welded to the rod tube. Where hi misalignment may occur cone wachers are used or hi angle rod ends depending on the angles the rods would be subjected to. All fastenings are AN/NAS.

    Some photos.
Reply
#8
Paul, from the pictures I have seen your car would appear to be an attractive and well engineered special, would you consider a thread giving us a few details about your build and some more photos. I for one would be fascinated and I feel sure I would not be alone.
Black Art Enthusiast
Reply
#9
Oi agree wiv ' im!
Reply
#10
(22-02-2018, 01:47 AM)Dennis Nicholas Wrote: First a quick plea.  When posting would everyone please use the terminology as used by Austin as found in their spare parts list.  The lists are freely available to read and download in the Austin Seven Clubs Association archive section.  This would make technical discussions so much easier to follow.  (drag link?????? what is that????.....is it the steering side tube 1A4147 or the steering cross tube 1A4018?????  and so on.   Confused


Thanks
Dennis

Dennis,

I usually try to identify parts by the The Austin Spare Parts List names but these are often quite different to accepted part terminology. 

On top of this is the US vs UK   

British term                American term
-----------------           -------------
accumulator                 battery
actuator                    switch or servo
Artic                       articulated lorry = "tractor-trailer"
baulk ring                  synchro ring
bonnet                      hood
boot                        trunk
bulkhead                    firewall
choke tube                  venturi
core plug                   freeze plug
crocodile clip              alligator clip
crosshead                   Phillips
crown wheel                 ring gear
cubby box                   glove box or glove compartment
damper                      shock absorber
drive shaft                 half shaft or axle shaft
drop-head coupe             convertible version of 2 door coupe
dumpy screwdriver           short screwdriver
dynamo                      generator

etcetera etcetera !

I would have thought that with your car the Austin terminology wouldn't apply very often anyway. Big Grin
 
Cheers, Tony.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)