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Correct Grade of Petrol
#31
I seem to be using 5/30 fully synthetic at the moment (I was given several containers full) and the car has never run better. I have been using 10/40 synthetic previously for some time with no issues. I have always used what is easily available over the last 50 odd years. Same goes for petrol where I use the cheapest, usually supermarket. Currently using Jet as this is the cheapest local station.
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#32
(09-03-2023, 10:26 AM)Chris KC Wrote:
(09-03-2023, 10:10 AM)AustinWood Wrote: we use 5/30 fully synthetic.

Interesting. I recall Mr. Stepney is using 10W40, and I'm sure there must be others.

I'm using semi-synthetic 10/40.
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#33
(09-03-2023, 10:26 AM)Chris KC Wrote:
(09-03-2023, 10:10 AM)AustinWood Wrote: we use 5/30 fully synthetic.

Interesting. I recall Mr. Stepney is using 10W40, and I'm sure there must be others.

Yes, indeed I do! All my vehicles are on 10W/40. I use a good quality motor oil changed regularly. In the Panda its changed every 5K miles and the Landrover annually, as it doesn't do a lot, but, as the saying goes, when you need a Landrover, you need a Landrover. On the Seven the oil is changed changed every 2500 miles.

I must be doing something right: the Seven has its original crank and big end bearings (at now 115K miles); the Landrover has now done some 300K miles on its original and standard crank, although it had new shell bearings and thrusts when the engine was last overhauled about 60K miles ago. The Panda has 125K miles to its credit and, so far as I am aware, the engine has never been apart.

All the vehicles do get used fairly regularly, which I believe is half the battle. (See also the thread concerning John P's oil pressure problems).
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#34
I'm not sure I'll be brave enough to switch any time soon, but it does at least give me confidence that if I'm out on the road and need a top-up, other grades need not be dismissed. One thing is for sure - any oil is better than no oil!!
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#35
I have two ( relatively) modern cars both of which use fully synthetic oil, one diesel, one petrol. Both have high mileages the petrol one 120k miles and the diesel one 300k kilometres. Neither engine shows any wear and oil consumption is non existant. The diesel gets a change and filter every 20k km and the petrol every 10k miles. If I was having a complete a7 engine rebuilt I would be tempted to use a fully synthetic oil for protection but its expensive and only worth it if you're doing big mileages.
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#36
Has anyone in this august fraternity ( I don't see many entries on the distaff side!) investigated or tried
the recent introduction for horticultural implements--- Aspen (or other brands) Alkylate ethanol free fuel

At around 7+ euros a litre here I don't think many would be likely to be tempted but as currently the RoI
plan to bring in E10 with no alternative E5 on the horizon some just might?

Ian C
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#37
(09-03-2023, 02:57 PM)IanClayton Wrote: Has anyone in this august fraternity ( I don't see many entries on the distaff side!) investigated or tried
the recent introduction for horticultural implements--- Aspen (or other brands) Alkylate ethanol free fuel

At around 7+ euros a litre here I don't think many would be likely to be tempted but as currently the RoI
plan to bring in E10 with no alternative E5 on the horizon some just might?

Ian C

I think you've pretty much answered your own question there Ian - without any obvious benefit why would anyone pay 7 euros a litre? Plus Aspen's site is rather coy about usage in road registered vehicles - doubtless with good reason. 

As 'clean' as this stuff claims to be, I should have thought any environmental benefit was easily negated by tossing away a plastic container for every gallon used!
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#38
It can be a problem for horticultural stuff. I have had to replace plastic pipework in both a chainsaw and a strimmer which I assume is ethanol related. The repairs were a bit fiddly but not expensive and the repair shop supplied me with ethanol resistant replacement pipe. More painful if you have to pay someone to do it.

I have a 5 gall Jerrycan which I fill with 98 unleaded for such use. Mind you, the chainsaw is over 20 yrs old and the strimmer about 10 so I just class it as wear and tear. I also have a small 2 stroke generator for emergencies which I also keep ethanol free. Two stroke engines do seem to be more temperamental as regards fuel than a 4 stroke and if the power goes out I want it to start on demand. My merry tiller equivalent (4 stroke) runs on anything it gets.
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#39
Hi Ruairidh,

I think it was an article in the PWA7C comic a year or two back. Something to do with ethanol clogging things up including Tank level senders.????

SO - does an A7 engine need stripping and a total clean/de-coke before using a modern synthetic (or semi-such). I ask because most modern oils have detergent in them.

My intention was to go on using straight SAE30 oil - Witham Oil at past/present - Morris Oil in the future.

I suppose I am asking how much clean out do I need to use the Supermarket stuff????
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#40
I will only put detergent oil in an engine that has been cleaned properly like this:


   


If you are not sure, stick to non detergent oil.


My experience of using E10 in all of our Austin Sevens and our Austin Twelve, for some time now, is that it does no damage to them, whatsoever.
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