Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 3 Threads: 1
Reputation:
0
Location: UK
Car type: Austin Seven Tourer 1928
Hi All,
I am lucky to have inherited a '28 Chummy last year. The car was in bits having previously suffered a water leak inside the block. After a lot of reading, watching videos and head scratching and some very valuable help from a local club member we got it fired up and I had my first very short drive last week. Three days later I went to start it up and the starter couldn't turn it over. I assumed a low battery so I charged it up and tried again today. Again it would not turn over so I put it in gear and rocked it back and forth, it made a scraping or grinding noise but did free up enough that the starter could work and it fired up.
Is it normal for this sort of thing after such a short time? if not, any suggestions for what is causing this and what to do? from the highs of last weeks first start up and drive it was incredibly disappointing today. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Aiden
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 809 Threads: 72
Reputation:
9
Hi Aiden,
Did you find the cause of the water leak the first time around? I might be stating the obvious but before you go any further I would be taking the plugs out and checking for water in the bores. If one or more bores is waterlogged it won't turn over. With the plugs out gently try turning it over on the handle to see if it is free.
Peter.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 52
Reputation:
5
Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
It sounds like you have a slight leak of cooling water into a cylinder. On the compression stroke you find that water does not compress. I had a Reliant three wheeler (engine based on Austin seven) and found the solution was to use it every day.
Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 3 Threads: 1
Reputation:
0
Location: UK
Car type: Austin Seven Tourer 1928
The original leak was up one of the central head studs thread and across the small distance into cylinder three. I had checked it after first start up and it appeared dry but I will let it sit a few days and take a look to see what I can see. I had removed the stud and put a new one in with plenty of Loctite and then silicone and used instant gasket on top. fingers crossed its dry as with all that in there it will be fun trying to get the head off to redo it!
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 682 Threads: 33
Reputation:
3
Location: Lot region FRANCE
If it is that leak again, you may find it leaks some days and not others - depends upon where the engine comes to rest. I had a Ruby when I was 18, similar problem, used to take the plug out of the offending cylinder and start it up on 3, then fit the last plug once it had dried that cylinder out. Happy days when the scrap yard charged you 5 bob for a dynamo (Take two of em if yer like son and bring the second one back next week).
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 698 Threads: 29
Reputation:
16
Location: Beautiful Northumberland
Car type: 1933 RP Saloon (aka Mildred)
There has been lots written here about the process to tighten up the head, letting it settle and then retorquing, and about cracking across the stud from 2 to 3. Appreciating that would likely show in a compression test have you also done that to just ensure a complete picture of what might be going on between block and head around that stud?
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 903 Threads: 107
Reputation:
3
Location: Melton Mowbray.
Aiden,
Is the block sleeved? There can be ingress of water between the sleeve and cylinder wall if not bored out correctly before fitting of sleeve.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
Water is very detrimental to the expensive rolling main bearings. I have had other makes very prone to leaks into the sump for a variety of obscure reasons. 30 or so miles seemed to dry out half a pint or so, and did no apparent harm to conventional bearings. If oil is drained dunno how pracical it is to separate most by standing. (I understand some have used washng machines for centrifugagl cleaning!!)
Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 3 Threads: 1
Reputation:
0
Location: UK
Car type: Austin Seven Tourer 1928
23-05-2022, 06:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 23-05-2022, 06:06 PM by Aiden.)
i've not done a proper compression test, i might stick a camera in whilst the head is on and see if i can see any cracks, certainly no sign of it with the head off (unless i've just done it)
in response to some of the questions, the block isn't sleeved (that I can tell, i presume it would be obvious). When i did first fill teh car with coolant a lot got into the sump, cylinder three was completely filled with water so i drained the collant, did an oil change and took the head off and the opened anywhere i thought water might collect (chest cover) in an attempt to get it out. When I sealed it all up again there was certainly no dramatic leak but I will check after a few days to see if there is a slight one. if there is a slight leak is my only option to have the head off and try again at sealing it all?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,249 Threads: 33
Reputation:
35
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
The problem of the block cracking on the centre stud is well known. However it is possible that the crack has progressed into n°3 bore, which is serious and you're not going to sort it with loctite, gasket goo or radweld. If that's the case, then the best cure is to have it sleeved. Either that or find a decent replacement block.
If you can clean up the top of one of the pistons you should be able to see whether your block is STD or oversize, and by how much.
