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Thrust bearing housing
#1
I am currently putting together a Chummy alleged to be 1924 to take to various celebrations later this year, largely because I very much doubt if I will still be here for the indefatigable Ruby's hundredth in 2035. Magneto engine much rebuilt, three speed gate change box from the workshop of Andy Bird. New clutch linings, gleaming new teeth for the starter ring from a universally loved tooth strangler, clutch plate with master splined drive to match the gearbox. All of which, when offered up yesterday, refused to operate the clutch at all. Swapping the original cotter located clutch lever for a later pinch bolt lever to allow  movement of the withdrawal  levers had no effect. An unsleeping Salopian anorak looked at much technical info last night, and sent an email suggesting  that the problem might be the clutch bearing housing. The one fitted is illustrated as 1924, the BJ22 shown for 1929 appears deeper, might that solve the problem? Any other thoughts? Naturally all esteemed suppliers will be on their Easter weekend, rehearsing Handel's Messiah, or getting ready for egg rolling. Anyone with a spare '29 BJ22?

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#2
Do each of the clutch toggles operate manually when pushed with a hammer handle, or similar?
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#3
It may not be a problem with the housing. Have you checked that the flywheel lock washer is not fouling the driven plate, (BJ6)  when you have bent over said washer to secure everything. I've been caught out with this when using lock washers that are too large in diameter as supplied. Turning down the washer to a diameter equal to the MAXIMUM DIAMETER of the crankshaft nut solved it for me and I always check it now before bending the washer. (I made a simple turning fixture for this). It's easy enough to do with a the washer still flat  and trial fitting the clutch assembly to check that the levers are in the right place.
Good luck  and Happy Easter.  Bob
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#4
Compared with a nearby early coil engine where there is easy toggle movement, on the new assembly there is scarcely any bounce. I was not sure if that meant one set of springs are old and faintly soggy whilst the others are new and very stiff. Certainly toggles and pins are not jammed but easily move. Helpful phone calls have taken place, with dear lady wives wondering what on earth we talk about so much in the workshops early on a Friday morning. One of the answers is the spindle length, which can vary but in both these cases are the same.

Which means that removal of the clutch must now take place. Lock nut washer will be inspected, and any possible reason for preventing movement investigated. A trial reassembly using old clutch springs waiting in a jam jar for their next call of duty will help. Thanks to all so far, who needs eggs when there are clutches to be enjoyed.
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#5
There are two different spline lengths on part BJ6. I don’t know why but there it is. If you use a long one where a short one is needed then the clutch doesn’t disengage properly. It’s happened to me. Might be worth a look.
Alan Fairless
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