New to the fold in a Special

[Malcolm Parker]

Welcome to the wonderful world of Austin Sevens, Charlie.   Your car was put together by a real enthusiast.   My only input was to provide the radiator cowl, I expected Adam to paint it black but he liked the look!
Most Austin 7's with 3 speed boxes crunch when engaging first, it's generally because the idling speed is a bit high.   Don't worry about it.  First gear slips in perfectly by double declutching on the move but can be a pain at standstill.  On the move it is the change into top that is generally trickiest.
All the other points you raised have been answered by the previous replies.
Use the car as it is and decide what you want to do with it.   Ulster reps are good for trialing.  If you intend trialing yours it would be better with a higher front spring to increase front ground clearance.  A secondhand saloon spring would do.  For hillclimbs or sprints the car needs to sit lower.  The flat front spring will be okay initially but you need a pair of flatter rear springs, these are readily available.    Nice double front shock absorbers are available that look good and help locate the axle.  Wheels and tyres are important.   19" wheels look period and a good supply of tyres are available at sensible money.   Your car sounds as if it has a 4.9 axle ratio, this was the standard ratio for most RN saloons.  With 19" wheels a light Ulster with this ratio should cruise nicely on the road but all things considered a 5.25 ratio (the easiest to find) is probably best.  My car has this set up and will climb a 1 in 4 hill in second gear.
We are a friendly bunch and a lot of us have Ulster reps so between us we will keep you right.

[Mike Costigan]

Regarding hill-climbing capabilities, no-one has so-far mentioned weight; a flyweight driving solo may well climb a hill strongly in second gear, whilst the same car carrying two heavyweights and a full picnic basket may not even manage the hill at all! I recall a prominent member of this forum emptying the loose change out of his pocket before attempting Harewood Hill-climb 

[ECG1000]

Thank you all so much for the insightful replies and such a warm welcome!
I definitely now have a more relaxed feeling about A7 ownership. I had a Frogeye about 10 years ago but had largely forgotten what classic ownership is like!

As threads are always more interesting with some pictures, here's one from last weekend; out with the pooch and the bird.

   

1. With regards to 1st gear crunch. I've tried slipping it into 2nd and then 1st when stopped, but it still crunches in both gears. I'm led to believe if the clutch was dragging, the car would try and set off once in gear, even with the clutch pedal depressed?
My idle speed is about 1200rpm, so perhaps worth setting it lower and seeing if that helps.

2. So anyone have a spare Ruby steering wheel or longer column that will fit? I'd rather try to use correct parts rather then chopping/welding. Unless there's someone local to Leeds who's handy at the latter...?

3. All good.

4. I'll shelve that idea for now. I follow a chap on Instagram @jonnysgarage who's Special is un-silenced, it sounds great. Worth a look if you're on Insta.

5. How do I check the gearbox oil level is correct? I think I've read somewhere that you can insert the engine dipstick into the fill hole?

6. All good.

7. I think I'll go down the flat rear springs route then. Where would one find a pair of these?

8. I'm guessing what has been referred to as the "core" is the same as what I have referred to at "fins"? If so, I've topped it up twice (about a pint each time) until I can see water sitting on top of the fins. Then when I check again after a run, it's dropped.

9. I'll stick with 3 speed then and try 19's on the rear. But won't 19's make it even more necessary for 1st to be engaged for steep hill climbs?
As an aside, I'm 82kg so not exactly a heavyweight!

Thank you again for you patience.

[Duncan Grimmond]

I can't escape that Jonny's Garage prat! Every time I look at instagram he's there again. I wonder if he has anything better to do other than enthuse endlessly. Nice car though.
If you're going to run with an open exhaust DO get in touch with a specialist ear-plug supplier, one who will take a wax mould of your ears and make a pair of fitted plugs (with attenuators so you can still hear conversation). Don't wait until you get tinitus because then it's too late. Ask me how I know....
I went to a place in Bradford just outside the ring road on the RHS going up the hill towards the lights on the road in from Yeadon. Very helpful, they supply Em-Tec Noisebreakers. You won't regret it, you just have to ask yourself if your hearing is worth £100.00 or not.
Miserable old bugger, what, me?

[Malcolm Parker]

Regarding the gearbox oil level, it is better running with a lower level than advised, as long as the gears are revolving in some oil, that is okay.  If you fill up to the recommended level oil tends to find its way out of the front of the gearbox and onto the clutch.  The 3 speed gearbox is fairly bomb-proof.  Most are likely to be noisy, especially in 2nd, not a problem in an open car.   They do crunch at times and the levers can waggle from side to side appreciably.  You will have to watch your left hand when you change into top, the pooch may become over excited!
I have always found that an Ulster with a straight through 'Brooklands' type silencer has just the right amount of noise.  Mine is fairly quiet at tickover but the exhaust note comes in with a wonderful rasp at anything over 3000rpm.   I would not go for an unsilenced system.
Ian Dunford does flatter rear springs, he pops up on here quite frequently!
I would recommend that you join the Pre-War Austin 7 Club, you get a monthly magazine, quarterly 'Grey' magazine and a super wall calender.  There is a very active West Yorkshire Group.
Look forward to meeting you, the bird and the pooch at some time.

[Reckless Rat]

Before you change the steering wheel or lengthen the column, have you thought about fitting a steering knob like they have on a fork lift. I can see why you're having probs from the last photo. Lots of them available on that well know auction site.

If you're having to top the rad up that much every time something's not right. It must be going somewhere. Best check. What does the engine oil look like? Is it like mayonnaise? Other possibility is the side water branch on the block, or the rad & connections itself.

[ECG1000]

Regarding the gearbox oil level, it is better running with a lower level than advised, as long as the gears are revolving in some oil, that is okay.

Thank you for the info Malcolm. But how do I know what the correct level (or lower) should be? Is it just a case using the engine dipstick to measure?

If you're having to top the rad up that much every time something's not right. It must be going somewhere. Best check. What does the engine oil look like? Is it like mayonnaise? Other possibility is the side water branch on the block, or the rad & connections itself.

The engine oil looks fine. No mayonnaise on the dipstick or under the filler cap. I can't see any leaking out of the engine or steam coming out of the exhaust. I'll have to take a closer look at the rad.

[Terrytuned]

click on image for correct way up.
Try this it works,  Terry.     

[David.H]

Looks like the system on the BMC 1100,s!

[Ian Dunford]

It's a rare occasion that I disagree with Reckless but completely flat rear springs are a disaster in most situations.
I also have spare Ruby steering wheels if this helps your problem.