Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 390 Threads: 81
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Location: CALGARY AB CANADA
Hi all.
What do those of you who rebuild A7 engines recommend for oil for the first start up ?
I am getting prepared to start the new rebuilt engine and I'm wondering what type of oil is recommended for the initial start and break in.
The machine shop that did the crank, re-bore etc. recommend I use a "break-in" oil with ZDDP which is designed to help everything seat etc. on the initial start and running for the first 100 miles or so, whereupon the oil is drained and the oil selected for use in the engine is put in.
Your thoughts on this would be most appreciated.
Stephen
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I would change the oil much more frequently than that. I recently fitted a new engine and did my first change after 15 miles, followed by 50 miles and by 100 miles I on was on my third change. I used some comparitively cheap 20/50, the cost overhead of more frequent changes is not great...
However, I don't know what ZDDP is, so can't comment on that choice...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 923 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
ZDP is a zinc additive that protects high stress points. Not needed in a low stress engine like the Austin. Essential for some 60s classics and highly tuned engines. Especially for aggressive cams on flat tappets.
I would use a basic straight 30 initially.
Any modern oil is better than what would have been available originally.
Jim
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Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
A quick google found this...
Historically, the anti wear additive used in the majority of oils was a compound known as ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate). The phosphorous content of ZDDP and its ash, has a detrimental effect on catalytic emission systems.
This has led to new oils being developed to meet modern regulations, which have reduced levels of ZDDP. These new oils may cause serious problems in a classic engine. Add one bottle of ZDDP at each oil change to protect the gears, cam and followers and add life to your engine.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,666 Threads: 46
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
You can still buy oils formulated with Zinc and aimed at the vintage and classic car market, Penrite for one do quite a range and Morris Lubricants do so as well. I am guessing the classic range of Castrol will have similar but haven't checked as they are not available down here.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 529 Threads: 17
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Location: Hampshire UK
Hi
Bearing in mind previous lengthy threads, I approach the subject of oil with some trepidation....
I was advised that if the oil you use is "too good" i.e. designed to reduce bore wear (which includes modern cheap types), the rings take much longer to bed in than they would if a specific running-in oil was used. Maybe in the interests of economy the first very short lived fill could be something cheaper.
I'm sure modern engines don't need this step as everything is made to very fine tolerances, but that's maybe not the case for the parts available for Sevens.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,249 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
From personal experience my car had a re-bore and pistons and some other work just over a couple of years ago. At running-in I changed the first lot of oil at 50 miles, then at 150 miles, 350 miles, 650 miles and 1000 miles. I change it now every 1000 miles, using supermarket 20W-50.
The amount of small debris in the first three changes was quite surprising, so perhaps an even earlier intermediate change might be beneficial. The engine has now covered 6500 miles and consumes very little oil.
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Location: Auckland, NZ
14-01-2022, 10:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 15-01-2022, 03:54 AM by Bob Culver.)
Running in oil was all the fashion decades ago but now seldom heard of. Major Oz ring and piston manufacturer ACL advises in 2000 catalogue a major oil company 20W50 or 15W40 with first change as soon as poss and not after 300 miles. (customers cars, Oz conditions above freezing, pressure feed))
It probably some coincidence but a very experienced Javelin rebuilder found be shells developed severe wear on running in oil.
Whether running in oils had a lot or no ZDDP I dunno, but a case can be made for either.
The main areas of wear are the rings and the dynamo cross gear if new or disturbed. A low or no charge rate assists.
Seems to me a sump magnet very desirable. Except perhaps for the first change often changed oil can be poured through a filter and reused. I dunno to what extent oils used for cold running are revived by a long hot run. It certainly evaporates condensed fuel and water.
Some of the SAE30s claims to be "classic" which, despite price, would imply no ZDDP or other antiwear, antirust etc additives .
The VW Beetle (at least to 1972) had no filter but 3000 mile changes (and a magnet). Like Porsche, did not trust current multigrades but the then monogrades would have had contemporary additves.
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Location: Northland New Zealand
Classicoils.co.nz are the suppliers for The castrol classic oil range in New Zealand.
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Yes, but the OP lives in Canada.
