Joined: May 2018 Posts: 1,918 Threads: 102
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi All
I’ve tended not use my Sevens very much during winter, but this year I’ve made a resolution to change that.
Apart from buying a sheepskin flying jacket (sheep know a thing or two about cold weather), I intend removing the fan and fitting a thermostat. I’ve already got antifreeze in the radiator.
But when do forumistas start taking these precautions? And are there any other things needed doing?
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,930 Threads: 160
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Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
01-10-2021, 05:26 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-10-2021, 05:27 PM by Mike Costigan.)
As soon as the temperature regularly drops below about 10°C I blank off about 1/3 of the radiator with a bit of stout cardboard. That will usually suffice for winter motoring, although if the temperature really drops I might fit a larger piece; I don't bother removing the fan belt.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 52
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Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
I now run without a fanbelt all year round. And with antifreeze all year round.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,247 Threads: 360
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Car type:
...perhaps an XXL cagoule over the top?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 982 Threads: 97
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Location: Cheshire
Sevens cope fine in the winter? The lack of a heater in the car, poorer visibility, and the concern of salty roads tend to be the main issues, so long as your car is reliable?
What I do on a cold day:
1. Wear a heavy coat, scarf, bobble hat and gloves.
2. Started the car from cold on the handle and let it warm up for a while, according to oil pressure.
3. Make sure I have my mobile with me.
4. Distance, timing (dusk) and weather conditions are involved whether to choose the Seven.
Other considerations:
1. Ensure lights are up to poorer conditions – are they clean and as bright as they used to be?
2. If there is a problem with clearing the windscreen or condensation then something like Rainguard Rain Repellent might help?
3. Have the roads been salted? I try to avoid getting the car covered in salt. After salting, once it has rained, the roads tend not to be salty. Salt can be washed off – but it gets everywhere and can lead to significantly faster corrosion if temperatures rise.
4. Consult a general website (e.g. the AA) about driving in winter conditions if you are not familiar.
5. Drive only if you feel fit on the day.
6. Heat a brick by the fire, wrap it in a rug and put it down by your feet.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,216 Threads: 100
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
I drain the radiator when frost is expected - that's about it.
Keeping warm in an unheated convertible is a challenge. Numerous thin layers are better than one thick one. Merino wool long johns are a good start; M&S used to sell them 'under the counter'. Most body heat is lost through your head, but fingers will be the first to feel it (or rather, not feel anything) so good headgear and gloves are essential. I have been known to stuff a hot water bottle up my jumper. There are great things to be found in army surplus stores. In real winter you have probably got almost enough clothing on if you can barely walk to / get into the car. Finally resist the temptation to keep warm with hot drinks...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 772 Threads: 26
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Remember that visibility is poor.
I have some of those very bright lights you see on bicycles.
Not the cheap ones that don't carry any distance.
They usually can be clipped on, retained by a cable tie or bit of insulation tape.
Drivers are used to seeing slow bikes in front of them, so your chances of being noticed are improved.
If the rain/fog gets really bad I have been known to stop until the visibility improves.
That said, I once came over the Pennines looking over the side of the car, vertically down on the white line in the road - that being as far as I could see.
Wouldn't do that now, though.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 858 Threads: 47
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Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1926 Top Hat 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
The main reason I now avoid winter motoring is the amount of salt that is spread on the roads when frost is imminent. I ran my '34 tourer between Christmas and New Year about 10 years ago and put it back in the garage without hosing it down underneath. By March, there was a layer of red rust over everything on the underside and a considerable cleaning up job to do.
Years ago, I used a Ruby as an everyday car and it was a full time job keeping the Girling brake expanders free. Even well greased, the salty water wreaked havoc with them.
Best advice is to hose the car down if you've driven over salted roads or keep off them until spring.
Having said that, I'll be on the Bristol Club Boxing Day run and probably using the car until New Year, after which it's bottom will be washed thoroughly!
.
