PLATING PROBLEMS

[Martin Prior]

We're preparing a batch of parts from the Swallow to send away for re-plating.

The radiator shell has been bent, battered and repaired many, many times and will never be perfect, but on the whole it shouldn't look too bad when plated.  There are, however, a number of significant imperfections that will spoil the end result.

The shell already has huge areas of brazed and soldered repairs and I daren't bring heat anywhere near it for fear of melting these.

Does anyone know of a metal filler that can be applied cold and then successfully plated over?

I also need to send the "Gas" and "Ign" lever, plus the horn button away.  Any advice on removing these from their tubes?

[Howard Wright]

Hi Martin

I think the horn button unscrews, the two levers were soldered on to the tubes on my car.  Willie MacKenzie sells new levers both chrome or nickel plated, may be cheaper than the replating costs?

As for the shell, the plater I used for this item managed to fill some of the ripples and defects during the copper plating part of the process.  Don’t ask me how  .  

Cheers

Howard

[Tony Betts]

hi martin,

if the tubes are good enough they dont need replacing.

the last ones i had done, the tubes were bound in black electrical tape. so only the levers took the chrome.

tony

[Stuart Giles]

As Tony says, the plater will tape over the bits that don't need plating. Make sure that you also ask the plater to tape over the fine horn button thread or you will struggle to screw it back on.

[Duncan Grimmond]

Regarding the soldered repairs, are they lead/tin solder or silver solder? Silver solder should be OK to plate but I fit's lead/tin you may have a problem as it will melt easily and if you try to repair with silver solder the remaining traces of lead will eat holes in the brass. Check with your plater regarding plating over lead/tin solder, I would expect a flash coat of copper would stick but it's not my field of expertise.

[Martin Prior]

Thanks - the tubes are in perfect order, so I don't want to bugger those up! I was hoping that the levers could be left in situ; in sounds as though they can. I'm going to have to remove the horn button, if only to rewire it. Where is the threaded bit? I can't spot the join!

[Howard Wright]

Hi Martin

Two photos one with thread half undone and other with it tightened up.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Howard

[Martin Prior]

Thanks, Howard. I'll go and investigate!

[Chris KC]

Should the question arise, I believe the horn button thread is 11/16" x 32 tpi...

[Mick Hobday]

I seem to remember that the horn button on a 1928 fabric saloon that I once owned was made of solid nickel and only needed a good buffing.
(That could be a line from a "Carry On..." film, entirely unintentional!)