Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,210 Threads: 100
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I know this comes up regularly but I have yet to find an answer that quite does it for me...
How to remove the taper pins from the clutch cross shaft / forks?
I have tried various kinds of walloping with hammers but my latest pair are still stuck fast and gradually peening over.
I would hit harder but worry - perhaps unnecessarily? - about cracking the alloy casing, it being more or less impossible to support the shaft properly/ in isolation from the case.
Heating the base of the forks doesn't seem to make much difference.
Perhaps there's a knack which eludes me?
Any suggestions welcomed. I normally avoid removing these things like the plague, but on this occasion the shaft must come out...
It's an early synchro 4-speed if that makes any odds.
Thanks...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,210 Threads: 100
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Where did you get new pins Steve?
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05-09-2021, 04:09 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-09-2021, 04:17 PM by Steve Jones.)
I think they came from ebay but be careful, the taper is imperial, not the more common metric. I can't remember the taper detail but I'm sure it was Ruairidh who put me right with the specifics.
Edit: Imperial are 1:48, metric 1:50. Small difference but an important one!
Steve
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Thanks Steve.
If anyone else has a magic trick I'd be delighted to hear about it!
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05-09-2021, 04:59 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-09-2021, 05:00 PM by Steve Jones.)
The taper pins are 7/32" x 1 1/4" imperial, Chris. Imperial pins are measured at the larger end, metric at the smaller end. To do the job properly, I'd suggest obtaining a 7/32" imperial taper reamer as well to clean up the holes in the cross shaft and levers.
Good luck!!
Steve
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,210 Threads: 100
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Thanks Steve and Jeff - however I have dodged the problem this time around.
I planned to remove the shaft as it was seized in the casing; but I finally found it easier to free the shaft in situ than to get the taper pins out!
A few rounds of heating, tapping, levering & wiggling with a steady supply of plus-gas and anti-seize grease seems to have freed it up, and there is enough lateral movement to judge that the shaft is reasonably clean within its bushing. Not the ideal way to do things but I feel it will do!
However many thanks for the info & I'll squirrel those details away for next time.
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I am not familiar with the set up but wonder if it is possible to:-
Mig weld something to large end of pin to provide turning/pulling force. The heat on the pin may even just free the pin as the heat is very localised to the pin.
I used this method on a broken off stud in another car where there was a tiny bit of stud sticking out. A nut placed over the end and a quick burst of weld on end of stud/inside of nut followed by more weld and the stud just unwound ok.
Dennis
The last ones I did, one pin came out with minimal effort, the second appeared to be laser welded 
