Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 172 Threads: 65
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Hi,
Having been given lots of helpful advice on here I bought a speedi-sleeve to fit to the flywheel boss.
The part number was 99187 which was as recommended by a number of people and, now that I have the flywheel off, it certainly seems the correct diameter.
My only concern is that the total length of the sleeve including the flanged part is approximately 0.694" whereas the length of the flywheel boss is just 0.530".
If I were to fit the sleeve as is and then remove the flange as per the instructions, the length would probably be OK but I would have to push the sleeve the last few millimeters by tapping it on the thin edge which doesn't sound likely to succeed.
Alternatively I suppose I could attempt to cut the sleeve down once it was fitted but I can't really see how I could do that with just hand tools.
Any suggestions?
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 704 Threads: 12
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Hi
You drive the seal all the way home with the tool provided then remove the excess length.
The material is very thin so easy to trim down.
Once trimmed you need to remove any jagged edges with a file or similar to prevent damaging the seal.
I am sure if you search Utube there will be a video of installation.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,132 Threads: 66
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
My first question would be. Why do you need a speedy sleeve.
I may have been lucky with my crank and fly wheel but I have never needed one.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 923 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
Lip seals need a good finish to work against otherwise they don't last long.
There's a big variation in the finish on the flywheel boss and also on the diameter. Speedi sleeves cure these problems.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 923 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
The lip seal repaces the felt seal which is unsatisfactory, especially after more than 90 years. The felt wears the journal and doesn't seal well either. A lip seal on the flywheel, coupled with the provision of a drain to take oil coming through the rear main bearing back to the sump is a much better set up. It laso improves the lubrication of the rear main which is very much hampered by the felt.
Jim
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 172 Threads: 65
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Any advice on the best method to trim down the length after installation?
Although quite thin I believe the sleeve may well be hardened.
Bearing in mind I will have to do it by hand I was thinking of either trying to cut it with a Junior Hacksaw but can't help thinking that will be quite messy or impossible if it is hardened. Alternatively I could try filing around the circumference with a triangular file or I do have a cheap version of a Dremel and some very thin and small cutting discs but the unit isn't at all powerful so again I'm not confident this will work.
Has anyone a method they know works OK?
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,397 Threads: 25
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Location: North Yorkshire
I've trimmed them with tin snips in the past. Once trimmed, file the cut edge to a slight chamfer. If you're careful, you can also fit them upside down so that pre formed cut lines up with top of the flywheel boss.
Steve
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 172 Threads: 65
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Just a quick update as I finally fitted the speedi-sleeve this afternoon.
After much thought I eventually decided to cut through the radiused portion so that it could be removed after installation. I did this with a junior hacksaw but it would probably have been easier with a good pair of sharp snips (if I had some) as the metal is definitely slightly hardened.
I then drifted the sleeve into position using the supplied tool until the radiused portion was fully home. This was somewhat easier than I'd feared it being a relatively light press fit.
Removing the "tear off" section wasn't as easy as it looked on-line. To get started I used a small screwdriver to prise up the end and then tried to peel it away with pliers but it was extremely tough. I changed to a pair of Mole grips which made it much easier.
Once this was off I drifted the sleeve down until it covered the full length of the flywheel boss by resting a piece of hardwood on the open end and tapping it down with a mallet. I had worried this would damage the unsupported end of the sleeve but actually it went down quite easily.
Now it was fully home there was just something like .030" of the sleeve projecting beyond the end of the flywheel boss which I filed off and also created a small chamfer to avoid it catching on the oil seal. A final smooth down with some emery and it was complete.
With many thanks for all the advice,
John.
