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[non-Austin] any MOT specialist knowledge?
#1
Sorry - classic modern question for the wider knowledge of the forum. I can delete...
Trying to research whether a dash seat belt warning light is now a MOT failure, or not.
15 year old electrics on a Peugeot Citroen which are getting glitchy, and resulting in a potential write-off of a perfectly car if I don't solve it within two months. Its not under seat connectors and the only information to suggest wider issues is that when the wipers are operated, the seatbelt warning and its siren go back to normal function (i.e. go out). The seat belt buckle plug in/out does nothing.
I'm going to start searching for earth points today. I'm not keen to take to the dealer to diagnose (needs Lexia 3) and fix as it will result in a bill more than the car is worth!
Any left field suggestions?
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#2
Its a fail now.

If it were me I would snip the wire to the buzzer, a d lamp, then wire the light to something else that does come on, then go off (charge light?).
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#3
I'm for an earth fault search like you Jon. Good luck.
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#4
Its a strange one, as warning lights (i.e. errors) regarding the "safety restraint system" will be classed as a fail. This isn't a warning light in that sense however - its simply a seat belt connection circuit.

That light should be a straight forward open/close circuit. So it sounds like the circuit is broken until the wipers are activated which then completes a circuit. I would try to find a wiring diagram to see where the 2 circuits intersect (fusebox is the most obvious place)
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#5
And I thought my 2CV was modern and complicated….
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#6
I sense a business opportunity for an energetic youngster: advertise for warning-light MOT failures - "WebuyanywarninglightMOTfailure.com" gather up the culprits and export them to Africa, etc, where such trifles can be and are ignored....
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#7
Jon, are you miles from Northamptonshire? I have diagnostic kit that might sort it...
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#8
I think Ed is on the right track; forget the electronics, you are looking for a wiring short or earth fault in one of the sensor connections.
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#9
Too far from Evenley, Ivor, but thanks!
Thanks all.
OK, I'll keep at the earths. I've cleaned all the fuses in both boxes, and established that the twin wire leading to the seatbelt 'receptacle' from the underseat plug seems to be closed circuit when not plugged in and open circuit when plugged in. Opposite to what I was expecting. But that also seems to be operational
Hedd - if I could just find the damn buzzer! The wiring is so complex that I don't want to get further mired. I realise its not technically 'safety', but having scrutinised other forums there seem to be lots going to down the deceit route and I could get pulled up on it.
I'll find the bundle with the wipers in and see whether there are issues that might give shorts...
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#10
follow the noise! - Failing that Google it. Someone somewhere will know where the swine is.

My friend who has a medical seatbelt exemption, made the main dealer sort the wiring on his new car before taking delivery. Apparently they just snipped the wires in the dash and to the buzzer.

Can you not jam a piece of paper clip between the terminal of the plugs under the seat?. Or is the fault nearer the dash? This cured the immobiliser thinking my bonnet was open on my old Mondeo, which I found first night I had it home (wonder why it was for sale!). 20mins after the fault presenting it was fixed, courtesy of Google.

Tonights job for me is open the bonnet on my Focus. Went to check the fluids after some good mileage on holiday last week. Key in, turn left, nothing. Common fault on Fords apparently. The bit that connects the key in the grill, to the catch some 6 inches behind seems to be fubar. Apparently its a bit of wire rope connected to a sh1tty piece of plastic. One or the other will have broken. Options according to youtube/google are thus:-
1. Maul off the grill, smash the wire rope off the shitty piece of plastic, and turn the catch with a screwdriver to open.
2. Take off the plastic undertray, undo 2no 10mm screws that you cant see, at arms length with your arms squashed between the engine and the rad. (sounds worse than setting tappets in situ on an austin) Pull it back off the bulkhead and unplug the wiring.

End soloution is going to be to carry round a long series screwdriver inserted from the grill to open in future.
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