a7 attentions

[Vancevr]

What are some attentions that I should give my Austin: oiling, greasing, ect. I would like to hear from owners not from the manual on what is most important  to do or to keep it at top operational status. my Seven is a show car and will get the occasional cruse but wont be taken to the store or to work on the daily as for insurance reasons so it wont require as many attentions (at least i think) what do some of you Seveners think, any help is appreciated.

[Andy Bennett]

I think it is generally agreed that the manual lubrication guidance based on mileage works, if a little over the top so most incorporate personal variations depending on local conditions, with the general exception of causing over-greasing of wheel bearings which can cause problems on brake shoes.
Depending on how often you use your car you might find more problems with drying out of felt seals etc. but I think that is more of a concern if unused for many months.

Andy

[JonE]

check rear hub nuts are super tight

[Martin Prior]

Our Sevens are in year-round normal use. I check engine oil and water at least weekly, but other lubes and greasing only a couple of times a year. I adjust the brakes between 500 and 1000 miles. Plugs and points are lucky if they get looked at once a year and the valves can go for ten or fifteen thousand miles without attention.

Having said that, I find that low-mileage cars require a lot more attention than their more heavily used counterparts.

It's a shame that insurance costs are prohibitive for you. We're very fortunate in that respect over here.

[Bob Culver]

Wheel bearings best not externally lubricated. Can stir up what is there with a thick wire. I dunno about the 3 speed box but most recommend running 4 speed boxes and diffs somewhat low. Needs very occasional checking whether used or not. if in use kingpins and shackles esp rear cannot be overgreased. No permanent battery drain as infuriating moderns but some method of maintaining charge required. A n inhibitor in radiator important. If no frost risk there are less expensive types available. Avoid starting the car just to move it. Condensation bad for main bearings and exhaust system.

[Reckless Rat]

The worst thing you can do is NOT use the car, and when you do use it, run it long enough to get it fully up to operating temperature so that any condensation and related deposits can be burnt/boiled off. The weather in California is probably better suited to a chummy than damp old UK, but dependant on where you are you may have to pay attention to salt air, or the likelyhood of wood boring insects or the effects of prolonged exposure to UV rays from sunlight.

[Vancevr]

The worst thing you can do is NOT use the car, and when you do use it, run it long enough to get it fully up to operating temperature so that any condensation and related deposits can be burnt/boiled off. The weather in California is probably better suited to a chummy than damp old UK, but dependant on where you are you may have to pay attention to salt air, or the likelyhood of wood boring insects or the effects of prolonged exposure to UV rays from sunlight.

I live in tahoe so we do not have salty air. My family owned lots of classic cars so warming the car to peak temp is always a must. We have a carshow every Friday night and it will be cruzed at least one other day a week so it will not be abandoned. And as I hear many people say the best way to keep em going is to drive em.

[Stuart Giles]

I would add checking the tightness of the king pin cotters to the "check once in a while" list. A7s don't have conventional cotters that engage with a notch in the kingpin; they have a smooth kingpin and the cotters have a "half moon" cutout. The kingpin only stays in place due to friction from the tight cotter and the factory's slight interference fit of the pins in the axle eyes. The eyes will bellmouth quite quickly if cotters aren't kept tight.