Wheel Hub Studs

[jamessmith1797]

Hi All,

The wheel studs on all the hubs on my '36 MK1 Ruby are very worn and need replacing. I have a couple of questions and advice before I make a start.
Firstly, I am thinking of replacing the hub bearings while I'm taking the hubs apart, I have no record of when they were last replaced but I believe it could be a good 30+ years, is this a sensible idea?
Secondly, to remove the hubs I have a hub puller, do I also require a hub spanner that fits on the studs that I have seen on ebay? Also when replacing the studs what is the best method for compressing the rivets?
Finally, I have seen a modern lip seal, which I believe replaces the the felt seals, are they better or it is worth sticking with the felt seals?

My Plan is to do all the hub, as I got back from a small run and finding one of my brass wheel nuts had stripped its thread!

I look forward to your advice and responses.
Many Thanks,
James

[Bob Culver]

Many studs are pulled part out of the flange and stretched which latter does not improve the brass thread. Cannot be corrected with a die. The supplied brace used reasonably is the correct tool.The Seven wheel bearings are very generously sized for the car. Smaller bearings in moderns last the long mileage life of the vehicle.
Unless going swimming, all races need little more modern grease than fills the races, with no external top ups as the book. The state of the seals in the front is then not critical.
Even when the diff oil is maintained low as many recommend, if modern internal seal have not been fitted, diff oil often finds its way into the hubs and out of. A modern seal very worthwhile. a problem is the often severe existing wear of the axle housing surface. Sealed bearings, although not designed primarily to stop oil flow, effectively do if not flooded.
The steel washer used with the felt seals must be retained. Gasket should be such that the large bearing is clamped endways. Check standouts. Especially at the front, the bearings must be a snug fit in housings.
The above article under Clutch applicable.
It is important nothing stripped or butchered in the dimantling. Most have been in the past.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

The "hub spanner" is a useful thing to have.

I objected to paying money for one, mine is made from a piece of bandsawed 18mm birch ply, sort of C shaped with holes to match two wheel studs.

This forms the head of the spanner, the handle of which is 2" x 1" hardwood bolted to the head.

It is lightweight and can be carried on the car easily.

It works fine and is much more civilised and less destructive than a piece of angle iron jammed across a couple of studs - which is definitely NOT recommended.

[jamessmith1797]

Thanks Simon, That's handy to know, I will make a hub spanner with some off-cuts of steel I have lying around

[Bob Culver]

On the car Girling brakes can be locked with the adjsuters and others by wedging the cable tight. Or a panel of wood can fit 3 studs and be finished flat to sit on the ground or blocks when axle still on car.
If resorting to crude bar between studs less damage if the studs are tightend but without running wheel nuts down to any stretched or damaged part of thread. Maybe refit drum and a washer and reverse nuts. Can protect nuts with strip of wood.

And back to the original. Some tilt in bearings does not mean worn; depends on grade but many are finished capable of handling slight misalignment. Every surface of balls and tracks can usually be viewed in good light for any sign of pitting. Roghness is very often due a trace of dirt, brush bristle etc Cages must be intact with no cracks. Some rear bearings have been overloaded due running with a broken axle.

[jamessmith1797]

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the advice, I think then in terms of the bearings its see what there like on inspection. I think I will get some in just in case as most things I have fixed have opened a can of worms and meant I've had to fix more than originally thought so may as well assume the bearings will be the same.

On another note, when riveting the wheel studs onto the hub, what's the best way/tooling for doing this. My thought is to assemble and clamp the stud, hub and rivet in then hit the end of the rivet to squash it flat.

[Malcolm Parker]

Some of the brass wheel nuts sold in the past have been of poor quality and are prone to stripping of the thread.  The point is that the wheel nuts are as vital as the studs in retaining the wheels.

[AustinWood]

Lip seal is a good idea.
We have fitted sealed bearings to all 4 hubs. Eliminates the need to have grease near the brakes. Also prevents oil from the diff getting through the bearing.

[jamessmith1797]

I'll go with the lip seals and sealed bearings then. Thanks very much.

[Graham Barker]

Have just changed the oil in the differential of my '38 Ruby. Using 7/8 pint (0.5 litre) brought the oil up to the level of the filler hole. Bearing in mind posts on this site advising against filling up to the filler level because of the risk of oil reaching the brakes, I started to suck some oil out. But stopped when I realised that to get the oil level below the level of the axle tubes, I would have to take out about half of what I had put in.
Surely Austin did not get the oil quantities so wrong. It seems to me that Austin must have planned to have the oil go through axle tubes.