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Fitting Tyres
#1
Hi,

In the past I've fitted tyres on a number of occasions but they've always been old tyres and although it's sometimes been a struggle I've always got there in the end.

My wife bought me two Longstone tyres (450 x 17) for Christmas which I tried to fit a couple of days ago but have completely failed.

I've read stories about fitting tyres without levers but I had to use a lever to get any of the bead at all over the rim at all and by the time I was on the last 10 inches or so the force required was so great it was flexing the tyre levers which are something like 5mm thick.

I did eventually get one tyre on but the brute force and ignorance approach I'd resorted to resulted in my puncturing the tube.

I took the tyre off which was a real challenge in it's self and today decided to have another try but now the tyre is about 3/4 on and I just can't force it on any more or even get it off.

The tyre levers are very solidly made but only about 12 inches long.   I've tried both talcum powder and washing-up liquid as a lubricant.   The only difference apart from the tyres being new is that I also bought new rim tape which is around 50mm wide and covers most of the surface of the well.

I've been quoted around £50 to fit the two tyres plus the cost of another tube bringing the overall cost to around £70 but before I accept defeat and pay up are there any other things I should try?

John.
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#2
from my exact question some months back....
24" levers from ebay help me (although people advocated you shouldn't actually need these at all, just working with feet)
talcum powder round rim of tyre
two G cramps to compress the sidewalls on "the far side from the final bit to pull on" - this keeps the tyre bead deep in the central well rather than in the outer rim - and suddenly you get enough tyre to work with

I've JUST done two 15" now, working slowly, on a carpeted area, with weak wrist and feeling crummy from jab yesterday! All done and feeling smug.


BTW, do you really want 450 x 17? They will make your steering heavier....
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#3
Hi John
I shall be watching this thread with interest, because I too have been struggling with a 3.50 x 19 Blockley tyre, but in this case it's getting it OFF!
 As well as the 12" size, I've got some beefier levers which are 20" long.but the tyre still refuses to come up over the bead. So far it has defeated all attempts by friends to remove it, although after the latest attempt, by someone who used to 'in the trade', he suggested I immerse it in a hot bath to make the 'rubber' more pliable.
It's more than my life's worth to take it upstairs to the bathroom, but I have acquired a large polythene container which is more than the tyre diameter and more than half the depth.
I shall try this next and report back. By the way, I strongly recommend Swarfega as a lubricant. And all because I got a puncture...............
Strangely enough I never had trouble fitting the Longstones on my Ruby, even in winter.
Good luck with your endeavours

Cheers

Bob
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#4
The secret is to "Start and Finish at the valve", in other words, push the beads into the well of the wheel first, then holding the tyre into the well with your knee, 180° away from the valve, use a tyre lever to lift the bead at the valve up and over the rim. Keeping the knee on the tyre to ensure the bead is right into the well, you can then lever over the bead either side of the valve until you've got all of one side over the rim. Then (hopefully you've got little hands, get your fingers under the tyre and pull the tube out.

Turn the wheel over and do the same with the other side. Then drop the rim right into the inside of the tyre and then pull the top of the tyre over the wheel and off it comes.

Fitting is a reversal of the procedure. If you get the tyre properly into the well you should be able to walk a 19" tyre back on without having to resort to levers, which is the best way of avoiding nipping the tube.

17" or smaller tyres are a little tougher but the principle is the same. Start and Finish at the valve.

Or, if you still can't do it, knock the wheel centres out and take them to a tyre fitter.
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#5
One thing that I always do before attempting to fit a tyre, is keep it in the conservatory for a while to get it nice and warm and, therefore, relatively soft. That, a couple of good quality tyre levers (I use 600mm Heyco like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heyco-150506008...B003K1ED0O ) and a stout pair of boots seems to do the trick. I also use a rubber mallet to help for the last few inches, if needed.

I fitted a new set of Longstones on the Cabriolet last summer and had no troubles. with these techniques..

The other thing that might help is throwing yourself on the mercy of your local tyre fitting bay and cadge some of the magic white stuff they use to lubricate the tyre wall...

hth...
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#6
As above plus eBay item number:
254807721570 and prayer.
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#7
Plenty of tyre lubricant and a paintbrush. To break the tyre away from the wheel in the first place, squeeze the sidewalls together by using a wood vice.
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#8
Swarfega is bad for rubber I believe and washing up liquid is bad for rims; it has salt in it. I keep a bottle of liquid tyre bead lubricant. It seems expensive first time because you can only buy more than you need, but second time and many times after you are glad you bought it.
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#9
Swarfega is bad for tyres as it's a de-greaser and takes natural oils out of the rubber. Washing up liquid contains salt and rots rims. If you haven't got the correct bead lubricant, Waxoyl makes a good subsitute.

Steve
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#10
On the subject of waxoyl, you can make your own if you're like me and Dave Wortley. First take half a dozen or so white candles. Put them in the freezer so they go really hard, and then smash them up with a hammer until they're in really small pieces. Remove the wicks, put the crushed candles in a bucket, preferably one with a lid, and add half a bottle of white spirit. Shove it under the bench and leave it for a month. Eventually the candles will dissolve, if not add more white spirit. Then, add the same amount of engine oil, clean if you want the waxoyl nice and clear (ish) but old engine oil is just as effective and of course cheaper if you're not bothered about it being black. Mix well and apply with an old paintbrush. Lasts for ever, or until you've used it all. If it thickens just add some white spirit.

full technical information and disclaimer here: www.rekkersistighterthanasubmarinewindow.com
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