Timing my ruby

[rwilliamson36]

Hi I wonder if some one could tell me if there is a way to remove the flywheel cover, as I have tried and it looks impossible. I am trying to set the timing ,I had to remove the distributor to replace a stud and I’m finding my ruby turning over a lot before starting, and having a bit of a lul or slow in taking the fuel,I though by advancing or retarding until I got the fastest idol,that seemed to help the throttle taking the fuel  had a bit of a flating  after excel-orating  or is there an easy way to set the timing accurately. Thankyou for any help in this also can you tell me In very simple terms as I am very new to working on cars so I don’t alway understand the tech terms,thanks

[Austin Nippy]

Hi, I hope this helps you as it is what I've been doing for many years now. Please accept my apologies if this is too simplistic in its approach but Isensed you're not too familiar with Austin 7's and their workings but have successfully managed to remove and replace the distributor already.
First of all remove the distributor from the dynamo.
Then remove number 1 spark plug (the one at the front).
Turn the engine on the handle with your thumb in the hole where the spark plug was until you feel some compression on your thumb (there may not be too much so you may need to repeat this bit a few times).
Once you know you're on compression, insert a longish implement into the spark plug hole so that it can rest on the piston.
Then, slowly turn the handle until the piston is at the top of its stroke - again you may need to repeat this a few times until you find the top.
Next, turn the rotor arm in the distributor so that the points are open on one of the flats on the spindle before replacing the distributor into the dynamo.
Then nip up the pinch bolt so that the distributor can just be turned by hand but won't rotate about whilst you try to start the engine.
You should be somewhere near enough to get the engine to start and you can then fine tune things by moving the distributor until you find a sweet spot for the engine.
Replace the spark plug and connect the HT wire.
Last of all, nip the pinch bolt up tight so the distributor can't turn. I suggest putting a pencil mark on the scale on the side of the distributor in line with the pointer so you can make sure nothing moves. If it does, you can loosen off, realign the distributor and tighten up properly again.

Hope that makes sense and helps you so that you can get your car running again. Best wishes, Nick.

[rwilliamson36]

Hi Nick Thankyou for your help ,The way I set up the timing when I replaced the distributor after repairing the stud, removing the No1 plug,then finding the compression stroke, then to the top of its stroke, then setting/ fixing the rotor arm to face No1 plug on distributor cap, with the points just beginning to open or at the start of the cam, not on the top or flat, as what you are saying, do you think this is where I have been going wrong, also I noticed that you say too find the sweet spot for the engine, Replace the spark plug.
I Assume you mean replace the spark plug before trying to start the engine and then find sweet spot.again I Thankyou for you help and patience. With me. Thanks Ray

[Robert Leigh]

I normally get the timing near enough for the engine to run reasonably, and warm it up fairly well so that it needs no choke as is ticking over reliably. After that adjust the distributor so that when you turn the engine very slowly on the handle with the ignition on you can just feel a slight kick through the handle. A vicious kick means it is too far advanced, and no kick means it is too retarded (make sure your thumb is the same side of the handle as your fingers, as recommended in the old handbooks). when you have got it set to your satisfaction remember to tightem the clamping bolt. I have suggested this method to others and they find it works, being surprised that they had not heard of it before. As far as I am concerned I devised it for myself.

[rwilliamson36]

Thankyou Robert I have heard of this system but wasn’t sure what they ment now what you have said is a lot more detailed and sounds good I can look a both Niks system and yours thanks for taking the time to help me.

[Bob Culver]

A major objective with any engine and particularly Sevens which are not very robust is not to have any more advance when running than necessary to obtain full power (or preferably a shade less.) Do not judge power by engine sound. An advanced spark can sound powerful with harsh engine and sharp exhaust but with little or no real gain.
There were two types of original automatic distributor and the type of internals and wear renders characteristics of any often uncertain. The static and idling speed timing settings may not produce the optimum running setting without futher adjustment. A significant 2 degrees change on the crank is only 1 degree of rotation of the distributor so the final adjustment is quite minor. When you do find your way to the flywheel markings, beware the early Ruby handbook and many derived books which were in error, advising the full advance setting as for earlier manual control cars.

[Austin Nippy]

I Assume you mean replace the spark plug before trying to start the engine and then find sweet spot.again I Thankyou for you help and patience. With me. Thanks Ray
Hi Ray,

Please forgive me for possibly "over egging" it. It was a slightly tongue in cheek remark to remember to put the spark plug back in before trying to start the engine!
Hopefully by now, you've managed to get the engine going OK and managed to make the fine adjustments to the timing once it's running reasonably well?

I assume that your car is running a Lucas DK4 distributor. If this is the case, it should advance automatically - i.e. there's no lever in the middle of the steering wheel to adjust the timing manually.
This auto advance is operated by spinning weights which I remember needed to be replaced on my Nippy many years ago as they had fallen off which meant that the timing was all over the place until it was fixed. If you're still struggling to time it, this may be something worth looking into?

I also had a strange situation a couple of years or so ago where the lip around the base plate had broken. This resulted in the cap moving around on the base plate with the resultant "variable timing" which followed. This led to some very strange goings on although I managed to get the car home about 60 miles like this. Despite trying various things to fix it - all to no avail - I suddenly noticed the missing lip and had it fixed very quickly and successfully after that.

I'm sure there won't be anything too seriously amiss here with your car but Austin 7's do sometimes present some strange symptoms which are often easily fixed with a simple remedy. I would start looking for the obvious (easiest and cheapest!) things first and then look further if the need arises. I would also err on the side of running very slightly retarded as opposed to slightly over advanced to prevent excess load and strain on the bottom end of the engine.

Whereabouts are you based? There could well be someone fairly local who has lots of experience who could show you the things to look out for to get your car running properly.

Hope that helps a little more?
Best wishes, Nick

[rwilliamson36]

Sorry Nick for late reply as I’ve not been on since Sunday Thanks for been so helpfull and spending the time to explain things,I hope to get at things this Saturday,and using your tips
Ps I live in Newtownards, Co Down ,N Ireland . Thanks Ray.

[Barry Townsend]

My suggestion is to make up a tdc marker on the cam pulley. Find tdc by and make the marker up, put a mark on the pulley and it's there for further use and makes ignition timing a breeze. I found the flywheel to be too fiddly to use.

[PJudge]

Does anyone know how much scatter is normal when using a timing light.  As there are a number of meshes between the crankshaft and distributor points, with backlash in each, there has to be some.  However, it should be less if measured at the camshaft pulley. Currently, I am getting up to 5 degrees on my Ruby's camshaft pulley so does anyone know what is normal or does this point to significant wear or meshing issues.  The bushes seem to be OK.