steering column woes

[sparkeysprite]

I picked up a "new" 1931 boat tail 2 seat tourer last weekend and I've spent a few days going through it as it hasn't run since about 2001.  It's a bit rough and there are a lot of things that will need improving but my plan is to get it roadworthy and then work out a schedule of improvements as a rolling restoration. It's been a week of ups and downs, but I did get it running yesterday and it sounded good with no nasty noises, good oil pressure and no nasty smoke (brakes and back axle weren't attached so I'm still a long way off a test drive), so last night I was friends with it again.  However today's been a series of disasters.

One of the problems is that the ignition lever on the steering column is seized solid.  I've managed to free up and remove the throttle/gas lever and pulled out the inner most column, but the ign lever column won't budge.  I've tried heat with a blowtorch to the top of the column which obviously only really heats the top so no good and eventually loosens the lever on the column/tube.  I've tried pouring boiling water down inside the column to heat the whole length of the inner, but that didn't work.  I've tried removing the big brass nut underneath the steering box to see if the whole control column would come out, but it doesn't.  

I think the next move is to remove and strip the steering column, but because the ign control lever cant be removed I can't remove the steering wheel, so I cant take the steering column out..

I'd rather not have to resort to my angle grinder, so before I do something stupid, is there something I'm missing or a method anyone has used before ? (assuming I'm not the first to have a seized column).

Thanks
Steve.

[Robert Leigh]

It's unlikely to give you an instant response, but I suggest penetrating oil or PlusGas around the top of the ignition tube and gently twisting the lever backwards and forwards. There will be an absolutely minimal amount of twist in the tube, but assuming it twists a fraction at the top this will help to allow the penetrant to descend the column. If day by day you get a fraction more movement I think you will find after repeating the excercise for a few days it will finally free off. You can also try turning from the bottom assuming you have the bottom lever in place. Don't force anything; if you get a twist in the tube you will have to find another; firm but gentle if you see what I mean. Good luck!

[dickie65]

Good Oil Pressure !!! hopefully no more than 6 Psi cold, if its more check the oil jets under the little brass nuts beside the block. Make sure the engine is a TDC before poking wire into the jets so that any gunge falls into the oil gauze not the crankshaft oil pockets.
Is there a plate at the bottom of the steering column that will enable the whole lot to be brought into the car and out once the drag link is undone ???

[sparkeysprite]

Thanks Robert, I think the slow use of penetrating oil is the only thing left to me at the minute - I'll give it a week of oiling and twisting and see if I get any movement.

dickie65, the oil pressure was over 6psi so I'll check the oil jets. I had it running for less than a minute as I have the radiator off to do a few other jobs - I just needed a small victory to keep me sane!

[Howard Wright]

Hi Sparky

If all else fails you could possibly remove the lever at the top of the tube.  I can’t quite remember whether they are pinned or just soldered onto the tube.  Removing the lever will allow you to get the wheel off. If the worst really comes to the worst you can always cut the lever off. Willie MacKenzie sells new ones.

Cheers

Howard

[Mark R]

Id be tempted to remove as much as possible, ie the levers from the base of the column and as much as will come out at the top, also remove the spring loaded block from the lever at the top so it's just the tube that may be stuck. Then as others have said penetrating oil. 

The other option is not to worry and fit an auto advance distributor (this may already have been done, you'll know by the height of the dizzy, if it's auto advance it'll have around and inch of height of larger diameter before the base plate, the manual advance has the base plate only then cap).This clearly would remove the need to fiddle with the ignition timing?

It sounds like a great project, don't get disheartened, it'll always be a little bit two steps forward one back but the end result will be forward progress and you'll soon forget the battles when out on the road enjoying it.

[Andy Bennett]

Not saying things shouldn't be thoroughly checked out, oils/fluids replaced etc if it hasn't run for 20 years but not sure about oil only 6psi cold. Mine regularly maxes out the meter cold but warm quickly settles down to sub 5, perhaps only 2 or 3 on tick over.

Sparkey: not many boat tails around, do you have pictures?

Andy

[Dave Wortley]

The lever at the top of the tube is soft soldered so there is a possibility of getting that off and then the steering wheel. A bit dodgy to put heat near the steering wheel black covering though.

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Try lots of wet rags around the steering wheel spokes.

[sparkeysprite]

The lever seems to be just shrunk onto the shaft as I can loosen it with a lot of heat from a blowtorch - the problem is that the lever is the only thing that gives me purchase on the column to allow me to keep trying to rotate it so at the minute I think I'll keep it attached.  The levers are off the bottom, but I may reattach them and try levering and penetrating from the bottom as well.
I could just get by without it as you say Mark, but fiddling with the ignition is an enjoyable if often fruitless part of the experience!

It's been an interesting first week - On Wednesday I had it up on high axle stands in my garage with the back axle unattached.  I went to my lockup to collect some tools and on returning I reversed down my very steep driveway.  It was icy and snowy and although I thought I was in 4wd in my Nissan Navara, I wasn't.  It started sliding and I couldn't stop it so it slid right into the garage and crashed backwards into my little Austin, which crashed off the axle stands into my Motorbike!  Surprisingly there was more damage to the truck than the back of the Austin - I think being on stands helped as the truck bumper went under the Austin and the pointy rear of the car's body punched a nice dent in the relatively soft tailgate skin of the truck.

   

All part of life's rich tapestry - although I may have said something stronger at the time..

[John Mason]

I am with Dickie. I would think that part of the floor should be removable to allow the whole steering column to be removed by lifting it into the car. Much much easier to work on out of the car.

John Mason