Wiring from scratch

[RupertW]

Hello all, I have Chummy project on the go built up from original parts broadly correct for an AE tourer, but by no means a complete original matching numbers car. 

Currently there is no wiring in the car beyond a temporary 12v battery and coil for test runs, and a non-working dynamo in need of restoration, so really I'm looking at putting together an entire wiring system and so had some thoughts and questions I could do with input on. 

I had thought for the sake of usability and parts availability to go for a 12v alternator based system. so some questions:

- Am I right in thinking that the alternator conversions have built in regulators, and so there is no need for the cut out? I'm assuming I'll still need to put fuses in the system somewhere! 
- I have a good early bacon slicer starter motor, which might end up on a different vehicle, but would 12v and the extra power damage it or the ring gear? Does the voltage need to be stepped down? 
- Will a standard coil suffer from 12v? 
- I know this system could cause some eligibility concerns for certain clubs, but in practice would restrictions be limited to where modern electrics give a clear advantage such as night rallies? 

Probably dozens of other things I haven't thought of, but any input much appreciated as always!

[Chris KC]

Are you planning on a lot of night driving Rupert? I don't generally have any concerns about 'usability' of my 6V car. It's true we don't go out in the dark much, but I doubt we're alone in that respect. For me the absence of electrical / electronic gadgetry is one of the main attractions of vintage motoring.

[Mike Costigan]

I agree; standard 6 volt equipment works fine for me, including some night-time driving.

[RupertW]

I wouldn't say I do a lot of night time driving, but possibly slightly more than most as I do like to use my cars. I've had occasions, such as on the way back from French trips where I've ended up driving through the dark for an extended period, and it'd be nice to be able to do extended trips without worrying about what the battery is doing. If it was a nice original car with working 6v I wouldn't mess around with it, but as I'm starting from a blank canvas I'm leaning more towards usability than originality.

Having said that I realise that LEDs might be a good compromise, so long as they don't cause overcharging issues.

[Charles P]

Am I right in thinking that the alternator conversions have built in regulators, and so there is no need for the cut out? I'm assuming I'll still need to put fuses in the system somewhere! 

Yes.

- I have a good early bacon slicer starter motor, which might end up on a different vehicle, but would 12v and the extra power damage it or the ring gear? Does the voltage need to be stepped down? , sta

It'll spin faster & start the engine more easily, but burn through brushes . Always carry spares.

- Will a standard coil suffer from 12v? 

New 12V coil needed

[Howard Wright]

Hi Rupert

I think the only restriction club wise is the VSCC. Alternators are a no no.  Even for daytime driving.

I have a recon 6 volt dynamo and use a diode instead of the cutout. Seems to work OK especially with leds. These are easily changed if regulations on a particular event forbid them.

I have to say part of the fun of vintage motoring is ensuring retention of the “period look” of the car and I think alternators are a bit incongruous when you lift the bonnet ?.  That said I did have one on my first special.

Cheers

Howard

[RupertW]

Does the diode also prevent overcharging, or is it only the discharge as per the original cut out?
In terms of visuals, I had in mind one of the more recently available conversions that fit within an original looking dynamo housing so don't immediately stand out.

[Howard Wright]

Hi Rupert

The diode is simply a replacement for the cut out.  

Cheers

Howard

[Bob Culver]

Presumbaly you have read of all the woes with the direct substiute alternators. And on old cars nothing looks worse than an add on alternator. Some contrivance using a dynamo is better althogh also ruins the chracteristic appearance. With appropriate bulbs and care at long traffic stops at traffic lights and a modern regulated bench charger cars are quite practical, as in their day. An 80 amp hour 6v battery packs alot of reserve at 10 amp drain. Main advantage of 12v is cheaper more readily available batteries, bulbs and chargers.

[RupertW]

This is the sort of alternator I am considering, and I'm aware of the need for retaining the original gears to avoid premature wear issues: http://www.accuspark.co.uk/DynamatorA7.html

A part of my motivation is as Bob mentions the cost of 6v batteries, I've never been particularly impressed by their lifespans and I've tried quite a variety of different types on different cars. In some ways I'm more concerned about overcharging a battery and ruining it than I am of it running out of power and leaving me stranded.